Friday, June 30, 2006

Woodstock Today


Alan Gerry founded the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, which opens today and is the first of about 25 structures planned for the former Woodstock music festival site. The field where the Woodstock festival took place in 1969 is beginning a new life as the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts.

This field, this pasture, this hallowed place, is still a touchpoint for those in my generation some 37 years after the festival. I had just graduated from highschool when it took place in August of 1969. I watched the news of it with rapt attention and those memories of the images are seared into my mind's heart and my heart's mind. Enjoy.


July 1, 2006

Back to the Garden, Minus the Mud: Bethel Woods Center Opens at Woodstock Site

BETHEL, N.Y., June 25 — This is hallowed ceremonial ground, a 37½-acre sloping field that held the convulsive euphoria of a generation in its muddy embrace. Today just a Frisbee toss from the "freakout tent" that nursed hippies during the 1969 Woodstock music festival, the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts rises, a copper-sheathed concert pavilion that would have been a hallucinatory vision to the folks in sodden sleeping bags on Max Yasgur's farm.

Bethel Woods makes its debut on Saturday night, not with Country Joe McDonald but with the New York Philharmonic with Audra McDonald and Lang Lang, symbols of the center's aspirations, and this town's, to become an international cultural destination.

The center is just the warm-up act, the first of about 25 structures planned for 1,700 acres across the former Yasgur property and an adjoining farm. It is an ambitious $70 million roll of the dice, the consuming passion of 76-year-old Alan Gerry, an entrepreneur whose family foundation is subsidizing most of the cost. Mr. Gerry is known for another bold Catskills venture: As a high school dropout and ex-marine, he transformed a television repair store in Liberty, N.Y., into Cablevision Industries and then sold it to Time Warner Inc. in 1995 for $2.8 billion.

Next year a museum about Woodstock and the 1960's is to open, designed by an architect who speaks about a "Woodstock viewshed" and conceptualized by a team that includes the founding director of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland. It will include artifacts and oral histories from festival performers and participants like Wavy Gravy, and offer walking tours of the "bowl," where the original stage stood. The complex will join a handful of new regional arts centers in New York that include Frank Gehry's Richard B. Fisher Center at Bard College and Dia: Beacon, both in Dutchess County.

What Cooperstown is to baseball, Bethel could be to the baby boom. Mr. Gerry, who dresses in the style of Johnny Cash, is gambling that the center will transform Sullivan County — suffering from decades of economic decline — into a land of B&B's and the 1,000-thread-count sheet. This summer's concert program features the Boston Pops, Wynton Marsalis, the Goo Goo Dolls, Counting Crows and, yes, Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young.

"We're starting from scratch again," said Sam Yasgur, a Sullivan County lawyer whose father, Max, died in 1973 but still occupies an exalted place in counterculture history. "For the county to become a destination like the Berkshires is going to require a major mentality shift."

The complex has also received $15 million in state funds, mostly for infrastructure. Anticipating growth, Bethel, which for years tried to forget the festival, has given $2.6 million for a new sewer system along Route 17B, the byway famously clogged with hippies in 1969.

"It's the 21st-century equivalent of protecting the battlefields of the Civil War," Dennis Barrie, a consultant and founding director of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, said of the site, which has had a contentious post-Woodstock history and which purists hoped would remain completely undeveloped.

Mr. Gerry is an unlikely savior. He forbade his eldest daughter, Annalise, to go to Woodstock, but she went anyway, and "disappeared for five days," he said. He was persuaded to buy the property by another daughter, Robyn, now 48, who missed out on the festival. A behind-the-scenes player, Mr. Gerry had a fortune tied to the county's mountainous terrain, about 100 miles north of Manhattan, where television reception was poor. Many in these parts still remember him as their television repairman. He now runs Granite Associates, which manages the family's assets. (The center is not a business investment, he said.)

During the last decade Mr. Gerry quietly amassed property surrounding the Woodstock site, including a neighboring farm where the sleek concert pavilion is now. His architect, Paul E. Westlake Jr., is Mr. Gerry's third, after he dismissed Richard Meier, designer of the Getty Center in Los Angeles, for a concept that "looked like a flying saucer," Mr. Gerry said. The interior of the Woodstock museum integrates local stone and wood beams in an attempt to recall the ad hoc, lashed-timber-and-canvas structures on the original concert site.

Mr. Gerry is taking a resolute, build-it-and-they-will-come stance. The son of Russian immigrants named Gorowitz, he still lives in the hamlet of Ferndale and has doled out beautification grants to nearby towns for roadside flower baskets and what seems like the country's largest concentration of gazebos.

"Families used to come from somewhere, and that's where they stayed," he said. "I can't imagine finding success and then moving to a building in Manhattan with 300 strangers, like a bunch of little ants going home at night. Not that I don't love New York," he added.

Sullivan County is a patchwork of shuttered diners, faded billboards and dilapidated summer bungalow colonies that commune with New Age retreats and organic farms.

For years the economy revolved around what are now mostly defunct Jewish resorts like Grossinger's that nurtured comedians like Alan King and Milton Berle. "We sat shiva for these hotels for 25 years," said John Conway, the county historian, referring to the traditional Jewish period of mourning. "It kept us from getting on with our lives."

In recent years a stream of Manhattanites seeking reasonable prices and a low-key vibe have snapped up weekend homes. The moneyed Orvis crowd casts bamboo fly rods into the fabled trout pools of the Beaver Kill.

The new Bethel Woods center is inspiring a mini-gold-rush. Judith Maidenbaum, a Manhattan psychoanalyst and a cafe owner in Kauneonga Lake in Sullivan County, recently paid $100,000 for a handsome Colonial-era house she intends to turn into a B&B, anticipating that the area might finally take off. "No one knew Woodstock was going to be Woodstock," she said.

But the Woodstock ethos remains deeply ingrained. Barbara Hahn, now 70, whose living room is a riot of Hummel figurines, sat with her Shih Tzu, Mickey, on her lap, and recalled being a nurse in the "bad-trip tent." With a grandmotherly demeanor, she recalled as if it were just yesterday how she lifted off from Grossinger's airstrip in an Army helicopter, bearing thousands of tetracycline tablets.

"My first patient dove into shallow water and split his head open," she recalled. "I asked, 'Are you still tripping?,' and he said, 'The trip is over.' "

The festival site has become a Graceland-style pilgrimage stop, its reverential gathering spot the 5½-ton monument erected by a local welder. Duke Devlin, the site's gray-bearded unofficial greeter, who came to the festival and never left the region, waggishly refers to the marker as "the Tomb of the Unknown Hippie."

Douglas Brinkley, a professor of history at Tulane University, said the site would only grow in historical significance. "It was where a generational wave gathered and broke," he said. "It is the one spot a hundred years from now that will be identified with the 60's."

When Mr. Gerry's foundation bought the site in 1996, a small fraternity of preservationists rallied to protect it. The New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation determined that it was "nationally significant" and asked that permanent construction not be placed within the natural amphitheater where the original concert was held.

In deference to history, the museum will look out over the sacred slope. Mr. Barrie and the exhibition team are on the prowl for coveted artifacts, like the yellow legal pads on which the co-producer Michael Lang scribbled the original site layouts.

Some purists argue that the complex should have been completely concealed. "The big preservation issue is, 'What is the true site of Woodstock?' " said Michael William Doyle, an associate professor of history at Ball State University in Muncie, Ind., who consulted with one preservation group. "Is it the staging area or the place where 400,000 to 500,000 troops massed all the way to the thruway?"

The end result is "bittersweet," he said.

"The site has been kept true to its original purpose," he said, although it no longer replicates the exact visual experience of 1969. That would be impossible: the Woodstock festival became free when gate-crashers famously dismantled the chain-link fences; Mr. Gerry has miles of elegant split rail.

Indeed, the litany of rules for Saturday's opening — no hibachis or coolers, no lawn chairs at pop-music concerts, only one "factory-sealed" plastic bottle of water per person — has sparked amused contempt among the aging flower children who still populate these hills, their drug of choice now Advil.

"It's the antithesis of the original spirit," said Jeryl Abramson, who with her husband, Roy Howard, has hosted an alternative Woodstock gathering since 1996. "Six-dollar water and no lawn chairs for the geriatrics!"

Blue, 55, whose real name is Robin S. Hallock and who was featured in a 1969 Life magazine article wearing love beads and what she called "three days of mascara," said, "Woodstock was beautiful, pure, sacred and natural." Now, she added: "I picture limousines on one side and us old hippies on the other. It doesn't sound like much fun."

But Country Joe McDonald, who lives in Berkeley, Calif., and whose "I Feel Like I'm Fixin' to Die Rag" was an antiwar anthem, said he thought it was "wonderful" that the site would again be used for outdoor music.

"I got no dog with the guy who bought it, even if he is a capitalist pig," he said. "It's not a sacred piece of land to me; the event is sacred. Woodstock happened. It will live on."

Additional reporting for this article was contributed by Lisa W. Foderaro in White Plains.

Thursday, June 29, 2006

The Future Is Now

All this is changing so quickly that only the most future-oriented can keep up, or even want to. I want to. Enjoy.

June 29, 2006
Basics

Video Catching Up to Photos When It Comes to Sharing

For Robert Levitan, the revelation came after a summer hiking trip on Mount Washington in New Hampshire with his twin brother. During the five-day trip in 2004, he used his digital Canon Elph camera to snap 80 pictures and 6 video clips. After the trip, his brother asked him to e-mail copies of the video.

"I said no, I'll have to make a DVD," Mr. Levitan said. "The file sizes are too big to easily send via e-mail."

That got him thinking: Why couldn't someone just send video from a desktop or laptop computer to other people's computers?

It is a question that an increasing number of digital camera users may ask as they start using the increasingly sophisticated video abilities of digital cameras.

Luckily, consumers have an alternative to burning DVD's or uploading personal video to sharing sites like www.youtube.com or www.metacafe.com. A range of new services and companies are making it easier than ever to share digital video from cameras or camcorders.

Sharing by E-Mail

Many popular video-sharing Web sites do not allow you to share full-quality video, because of bandwidth limitations. Instead, they provide a compressed resolution and reduced-quality version of your video, optimized for online viewing.

Pando, which Mr. Levitan helped found, takes a different approach. It transmits video files (or any files) from one computer to another using easily downloadable peer-to-peer software that manages the file transfers and communication between the computers (the peers) in the background.

The whole process is wrapped into a simple, e-mail-friendly format so users can send links and initiate video transfers as easily as attaching and sending a digital picture.

"On a personal level, I needed this product after that camping trip," said Mr. Levitan, who was earlier a founder of iVillage, a collection of Web sites bought by NBC Universal this year for $600 million. "Normally you'd attach pictures or videos to an e-mail, but e-mail wasn't designed to handle sending very large files."

Pando's process is simple. Users register at www.pando.com, and download and install a small software program (available in a test version for both Mac and PC). After that, users simply open up Pando, hit the "send new" button, and select the files or folders they want to send, along with a short description of the package.

An e-mail message is sent to the recipients, who, once she has installed the Pando software, can click on a small attachment and start downloading the files. A strength of Pando is the ability to send large files — the service allows users to send up to a gigabyte at a time, which is enough for hours of video.

Pando does not compress or transcode video files, so there is no change in video quality. In addition, Pando can be used with any type of attachment — video files, digital pictures, documents, PowerPoint files. Pando seems to have answered a need, reporting more than 600,000 downloads of its software in six months.

Becoming a Broadcaster

Alternatively, you can become your own broadcaster with Pixpo. Pixpo allows consumers to maintain their videos on their own computer and broadcast them to selected friends or relatives.

"We allow users to create broadcasting channels that can be made public or kept private," said Robert Cooper, Pixpo's director of business. "Public ones are visible to anyone via your broadcast home page, while private ones can be viewed only by people you've e-mailed a link to."

Pixpo, available in beta testing, turns your PC (and in the future, your Mac) into a broadcasting center able to stream video. The service is free and has no limitations on the number of video clips or users involved in sharing. Resolution is optimized for Internet transmission, at 240 by 320 pixels, a compromise between speed and quality.

The advantage for viewing is that Pixpo streams the video over the Internet instead of sending the actual video files, which would require the receiver to have the right video software (known as a codec).

But since the files you are sharing remain on your PC, you need to have an always-on connection and leave your PC and Pixpo software running to provide round-the-clock access to your video.

Setup is easy: go to www.pixpo.com, download the software (currently a svelte 4.5 megabytes) and then create your broadcast channel by selecting the files you want to share, giving your channel a name and telling friends about it.

Of course, if 100 people show up at the same time to view your video, your computer connection probably will not support the load. Pixpo can help by storing highly requested video from your system in a cache, so multiple copies can be served simultaneously.

Outsourcing It

If you do not want people viewing video directly from your computer, you might consider a fee-based video hosting service like HomeMovie or Snapfish.

"We're positioning our services as video sharing for grown-ups, not 'ego-casting,' where people upload a two- to three-minute clip of themselves lip-synching," said Lars Krumme, a co-founder of HomeMovie.

HomeMovie's latest service, Afiniti 3.0, allows consumers to send in tapes for digitizing, upload saved files for sharing or connect their digital camera or camcorder directly to their computer and transfer new video or pictures. The service can also be used to download the video to iPods.

Users can have up to five hours of video content in their online account free. Up to 10 hours is $3.99 a month with no time limit for the clips — you can have one-minute clips or two-hour clips.

When you share video using HomeMovie (www.homemovie.com), the clips are uploaded from your computer to HomeMovie's servers. Invited friends and family members, who are given a password, can download the clips to their iPods, order DVD's or view the video online — all free.

You can tag movies or scenes with keywords, so that you can search for "vacation" video or "birthday" scenes. HomeMovie also offers a service that will encode a two-hour tape into digital files for $5.

An advantage of HomeMovie is that it provides basic video editing abilities, including combining clips into a longer movie, or the ability to remove unwanted scenes — particularly helpful when working with shorter clips from digital cameras.

However, there are no special transition tools, like dissolves or fades; the scenes simply cut from one to another. For other kinds of movie magic, you will need a video editing software package.

Mixing It Together

Of course, if you are recording video with a digital camera, you are probably also taking pictures, and may want to be able to upload both to one place for printing and sharing — at least that is the bet that Snapfish is making with its new video-sharing service.

Snapfish (www.snapfish.com) offers a 30-day free trial of its video-sharing abilities. Afterward, it's $2.99 a month or $24.99 a year for unlimited video sharing. The service was introduced in January, and Snapfish says thousands have already used it, and it is trying to integrate video and photo sharing as much as possible. Snapfish albums can have still pictures and video mixed together.

Any "family friendly" video up to 10 minutes can be uploaded to the site. A crucial part of the service is converting (known as transcoding) the video file — which can come in 13 different formats — into MPEG2, which can be easily uploaded and shared.

Snapfish lets visitors actually save the file they are viewing by right-clicking their mouse, but Ben Nelson, Snapfish's general manager, said viewing, not keeping, was the point of the service.

Unlike a snapshot, "printing a video isn't that easy," he said, "so the ability to share videos is a really important feature."

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Addiction Pill?


We're all addicted to something, aren't we? What's YOUR addiction ? One of mine is blogging ! Enjoy.

June 25, 2006

An Anti-Addiction Pill?

Last month, the Picower Institute for Learning and Memory at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology was host to a conference about addiction for a small, invitation-only crowd of neuroscientists, clinicians and public policy makers. It was an unusual gathering. Addiction conferences are usually sober affairs, but M.I.T. offered a lavish cocktail reception (with an open bar, no less). More important, the conference was a celebration of the new ways scientists and addiction researchers are conceptualizing, and seeking to treat, addiction. While many in the treatment field have long called addiction a "disease," they've used the word in vague and metaphorical ways, meaning everything from a disease of the mind to a disease of the spirit. Many assumed that an addict suffers from a brain-chemistry problem, but scientists had not been able to peer into our heads to begin to prove it.

Now they can, using advances in brain-imaging technology. And they tend to agree on what they see, although not necessarily on how to fix it: addiction — whether to alcohol, to drugs or even to behaviors like gambling — appears to be a complicated disorder affecting brain processes responsible for motivation, decision making, pleasure seeking, inhibitory control and the way we learn and consolidate information and experiences. This new research, in turn, is fueling a vast effort by scientists and pharmaceutical companies to develop medications and vaccines to treat addiction. The National Institute on Drug Abuse and the National Institute on Alcohol Abuse and Alcoholism are studying, or financing studies on, more than 200 addiction medications.

The search for pharmacology to treat addiction is not new. The history of addiction treatment in America is rife with supposed miracle medications and "cures," most of which turned out to be useless. But there are a handful of drugs — some developed in the mid-1900's, others in the last decade or so — that are being used to help addicts quit. For heroin addiction, there's methadone and buprenorphine, both of which bind to and activate opioid receptors in the brain. Each essentially substitutes for heroin by activating the same brain receptors as the drug, but many addiction doctors prefer buprenorphine, which the Food and Drug Administration approved in 2002, because it causes less of a high and less dependence.

For alcohol, Antabuse, which makes people physically ill if they drink, has been on the market since 1948, although it isn't widely used. Addiction scientists are more hopeful about another anti-alcoholism drug, naltrexone, which was originally developed to treat opioid addiction but was approved for the treatment of alcoholism in 1994. Studies have found it can help some alcoholics abstain from or cut down on their drinking, and two pharmaceutical companies recently teamed up to produce Vivitrol, a long-acting, injectable form of naltrexone, which the F.D.A. approved in April. Some hope Vivitrol will sidestep a huge challenge facing those seeking pharmacological solutions for addiction: unless they're getting high from it, most addicts aren't model medicine takers. (Vivitrol requires a monthly shot from a doctor.)

None of the medications currently approved to treat addiction are perfect, and in many ways they are the products of some of our earlier advances in neuroscience. In the last few years, though, scientists say they've learned a staggering amount about how addiction affects the brain, and neuroscientists and other addiction researchers are eagerly testing and developing a new generation of anti-addiction medications.

"In 5 or 10 years, we will be treating addiction very differently," predicts Nora Volkow, a psychiatrist and the director of the institute on drug abuse, who attended the M.I.T. conference and presented a lecture, "Addiction: The Neurobiology of Free Will Gone Awry," in an intense and rapid-fire speaking style. (Besides being a leading American thinker about addiction, Volkow is the great-granddaughter of Leon Trotsky.) What Volkow means is that in a decade or so, we may actually start treating addiction effectively. Addiction is one of the nation's biggest public health problems, costing $524 billion (including lost wages and costs to the public health care and criminal justice systems) each year. The majority of the estimated 20 million alcoholics and drug addicts in America (and millions more compulsive gamblers, overeaters and sex addicts, if you accept an expanded understanding of addiction) never get help. Those who do often relapse repeatedly, sometimes returning to treatment centers 5, 10 or 15 times (if they don't die first). And many of those who "recover" simply trade one addiction for another — addicts call this dance "switching seats on the Titanic."

The Dopamine Connection

For much of the past two decades, Volkow and other neuroscientists exploring the physiological basis of addiction have tried to explain it by studying the brain chemical dopamine, which functions as a neurotransmitter, sending signals between cells in the brain. Dopamine affects a variety of critical functions, including learning, memory, movement, emotional response and feelings of pleasure and pain.

Dopamine was originally thought to serve as a kind of pleasure signal in the brain, telling us when something feels good or rewarding. But scientists now believe that dopamine is more a predictor of salience — that is, it tells us, and then helps us to remember, what we should focus on. When you see a person you are strongly attracted to, scientists can now see a spike of dopamine in your brain. If you are hungry and smell a food you like, dopamine also increases. But even unpleasant experiences — like physical pain or the fear of an intruder in the house — can cause a dopamine spike. (Some hypothesize that different dopamine receptor cells are responsible for firing during rewarding or aversive situations.)

Drugs, particularly cocaine and methamphetamines, cause a large increase in the amount of dopamine secreted and pooling between brain cells, leading to feelings of euphoria. With regular, repeated "addictive" drug use, though, the brain eventually responds by reducing its normal release of dopamine. Studies also show a simultaneous decrease in the number of dopamine receptors created. That, in turn, makes the brain's reward system less likely to respond to behaviors (romance, a good meal, the company of friends) that produce a normal dopamine surge. The addicted brain essentially becomes pathologically selective, dependent on bigger and bigger blasts of, say, cocaine to feel rewarded.

Perhaps most fascinating to addiction researchers is how an increase in dopamine creates a craving — and an expectation of a reward. In a study published earlier this month in The Journal of Neuroscience, Volkow used a brain scan to look at the dopamine releases in 18 cocaine addicts while they watched two videos: one of nature scenes, the other of people using cocaine. Volkow found that dopamine increased while the addicts watched the cocaine video and that the severity of the increase matched their self-reported level of craving for the drug. "For these people, their lives and experience had taught them that when they see others using cocaine, they're probably about to get rewarded with drugs, too," Volkow told me. "So even though they consciously knew that they weren't going to get cocaine after watching the video, their brains had learned to expect the reward."

Scientists posit that cue-induced dopamine spikes and craving essentially overpower the brain's well-meaning frontal cortex, which is responsible for planning and decision making. The institute on drug abuse is currently financing studies of medications that could potentially blunt that process, interfering with the release of dopamine when an addict sees a conditioned cue.

Dopamine also travels to the parts of the brain responsible for solidifying memory, like the amygdala, which learns and stores emotional memories (including the high of drugs). Some researchers hypothesize that through a combination of medicine and behavioral therapy, addicts could "unlearn" these powerful memories and associations, making them less likely to relapse when they see a cue. "Potentially, you could put an addict in a virtual-reality situation where you show them videotapes of friends they used to use drugs with, or whatever their strongest triggers are," Eric Nestler, a neuroscientist and addiction specialist at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, told me earlier this month. "But now, the cue isn't associated with any kind of rewarding response. So then you can give a medication, which we're making progress on developing, that enhances memory formation. Essentially, you'd be teaching them something new — that a line of white powder means nothing special."

Dopamine may also make some people more vulnerable to addiction. Recent studies in both animals and humans have indicated that those with low levels of dopamine D2 receptors, which regulate the release of dopamine in the brain, are more likely to find the experience of taking drugs pleasurable. Some researchers, like Volkow, suggest that people with fewer D2 receptors experience a less intense reward signal, causing them to overindulge in order to feel satisfied.

In one experiment, Volkow increased the level of dopamine D2 receptors in rats that had low levels. After the increase, the rats significantly curtailed their intake of alcohol, which they had eagerly gulped down before. Unfortunately, we don't yet know how to safely increase the number of dopamine D2 receptors in humans.

In fact, we don't yet know how to do much when it comes to dopamine and addiction. Understanding how the neurotransmitter works may help us to understand addiction better, but it hasn't led to any effective medications, the ultimate goal of many researchers. Because addiction seems to disrupt so many different brain regions, neuroscientists are now casting a wider net in their pursuit of effective medications. For some, the new frontier involves the brain's two major "workhorse" neurotransmitters: GABA and glutamate.

Getting the Brain's Brakes to Work

Walter Ling, a neurologist and the director of the Integrated Substance Abuse Programs at U.C.L.A., likes to explain complex brain processes using simple metaphors. GABA, he says, is to a brain what a braking system is to a car. "The brain works by inhibition," he told me recently. "At some point you realize that your car is a great car not because of its engine but because it has a great braking system. GABA is the brakes. If your brakes don't work well, you crash."

GABA (gamma-aminobutyric acid) is the brain's major inhibitory transmitter, and its role, in essence, is to keep glutamate, the main excitatory transmitter, from overwhelming us. In the extreme, too much glutamate can cause a seizure and too much GABA can put us in a coma. Researchers are particularly interested in the brain's critical balance of GABA and glutamate — some hypothesize that addictive craving is the result of too much glutamate or too little GABA. "We've been able to measure GABA in living brains for some time, but measuring glutamate in living human brains has just become feasible in the last few months," says Frank Vocci, the director of the division on pharmacotherapies and medical consequences at the institute on drug abuse. "What's been shown is that people with alcohol and cocaine problems have less GABA in their brains, and we do know that medications that increase GABA have shown some efficacy in treating addiction." (Vocci says that it isn't yet clear whether the absence of GABA is a cause of addiction or a result.) The seizure medication topiramate, for example, works on both GABA and glutamate and has helped some alcoholics in initial trials quit or cut back on their drinking. The muscle relaxant baclofen, which essentially mimics the effects of GABA, may also help some cocaine addicts quit. Both are being tested further by the institute.

Hythiam, a Los Angeles-based health care services management company that made national news in the spring when it plastered Chris Farley's face — with the words "It Wasn't All His Fault" — on a series of Los Angeles billboards, is particularly interested in GABA's role in addiction. The company is aggressively marketing its Prometa protocol for cocaine, alcohol and methamphetamine addiction, which involves therapy and medications, both oral and intravenously injected, not usually used to treat addiction: flumazenil, approved by the F.D.A. to treat overdoses of Valium and Xanax, and gabapentin, approved to relieve neuropathic pain. While no double-blind placebo studies have tested Prometa's effectiveness (two are under way), addiction-medicine doctors around the country who have administered the protocol report encouraging results. Prometa appears to reduce anxiety and craving by enhancing the brain's GABA receptors, says David Smith, the former president of the American Society of Addiction Medicine and now the director for medical affairs at Hythiam and the head of a Prometa treatment center in Los Angeles. Sanjay Sabnani, Hythiam's senior vice president for strategic development, says: "It's all hypothesis at this point, because we haven't sliced open anyone's brain yet, but it seems that normalizing the GABA receptor takes away the craving and anxiety that one would typically experience in the absence of the drug. And it doesn't appear to be happening because of will power, love, God, discipline, family support or anything else. It seems to be happening because the protocol resets a faulty mechanism in the brain." Yet, several addiction scientists told me they were skeptical that Prometa works, and some criticized Hythiam for promoting it before it has been rigorously tested.

The Prescription Model

Hythiam was among a handful of companies publicizing their anti-addiction medications last month at the American Society of Addiction Medicine conference in San Diego. Several were armed with charts, graphs and clinical-study results (particularly the ones that found their medications most effective), and their eager young marketing and sales teams talked about doing for addiction what the pharmaceutical industry did for depression: medicalizing it, and destigmatizing it in the process.

They know it won't be easy. A series of recent surveys sponsored by the National Council on Alcoholism and Drug Dependence and by Faces and Voices of Recovery, a recovery advocacy group, found that half the public called addiction a personal weakness. Among those who did see addiction as a disease, most put it in a special category of diseases that people get by making poor choices. In a 2004 poll of the general public, two-thirds said they believed that a stigma — usually defined as a thing that disgraces a person or injures one's reputation — exists for people in recovery from addiction.

The pharmaceutical companies came to San Diego to argue that addiction is a chronic and recurring disease like diabetes or hypertension — and no one, they say, tells a diabetic to try to tough it out without insulin. They don't discount the importance of environment in inducing addictive behavior or psychosocial interventions as part of the recovery process; in fact, most stress therapy as an essential adjunct to their products. But they insist that medications will stabilize addicts and make the deeper therapeutic and spiritual work more effective.

In the exhibition hall, the prime booth location near the entrance belonged to Alkermes and Cephalon, the two pharmaceutical companies producing and marketing Vivitrol, the recently approved, injectable form of naltrexone, prescribed for alcoholics. Alkermes and Cephalon are initially focusing on doctors who specialize in addiction, but they plan eventually to market the drug directly to primary care physicians, most of whom are used to sending their addicted patients to treatment centers and groups like Alcoholics Anonymous. "It would require a complete paradigm shift," Doug Neale, a product director at Cephalon, told me, "but we'd like to see the day when a patient who is struggling with alcoholism can walk into their primary care doctor's office, say, 'Doc, I'm drinking too much and can't seem to stop,' and the doctor will have a handful of options for medications that he could prescribe."

But Ling, the U.C.L.A. researcher, cautions that we still have a way to go before we can effectively treat most addicts medically. "In general, we have a pretty good handle on dealing with opioid addiction," he says. But "if you look at the various studies of alcohol-abuse drugs, the results are mixed at best," he continues, adding: "These kinds of mixed findings mean that the drug maybe works for some people, but it's not working all that great. And we're still far off from having a handle on treating people addicted to stimulants like cocaine and methamphetamine."

A Higher Power Versus Medicine

John Schwarzlose, the president of the Betty Ford Center, says he isn't convinced that treating alcoholics and drug addicts with more drugs — particularly if they aren't proved effective — is a good idea. He points out that millions of addicts around the world have recovered without the help of medication. "We're open to medications that will actually work, but the fact is that today 12-step treatment is still the best treatment there is," he told me. "Nothing even comes close. And until something does, we like to try to keep most of our patients as drug-free as possible."

Many addiction treatment centers share that view, which made for a strange scene in the exhibition hall at the society of addiction medicine conference. The treatment centers, most of which advocate a behavioral and spiritual solution to addiction, promoted their centers right next to pharmaceutical companies boasting novel medical solutions. "Why can't these two camps come together?" Smith, the medical director of Hythiam, said as he sat in front of the company's booth. "They need to come together. In medicine, if something isn't working, you try something new. In addiction, if someone goes to treatment and fails, for years we've just sent them back again and again and expected different results. That's insanity. And we're starting to realize that. The field of addiction treatment is changing right before our eyes, and it's only going to continue to change. Advances in neuroscience and pharmacology will change everything."

Those changes could lead to addiction vaccines. Several are already in development. The British company Xenova Group Plc has created what it says are effective vaccines for cocaine and nicotine addiction (NABI Biopharmaceuticals in Florida has also developed a nicotine vaccine). The vaccines, which the institute on drug abuse and others are testing, work by producing antibodies to a specific drug, binding to the drug when it enters the bloodstream and keeping it from entering the brain. An effective vaccine won't stop craving or treat any underlying pathology (making it an inadequate solution, some say), but it will make it nearly impossible for an addict to get high on that particular substance.

And if it is combined with medications that could blunt craving, some addiction specialists believe that we'll stop using the word "treat" and start using the word "cure." Matthew Torrington, an addiction-medicine doctor in Los Angeles who works with Smith at his Prometa center, attended the society's conference and told me that he believes we can essentially eliminate addiction in America.

"With the scientific advances we're making in understanding how the human brain works," he says, "there's no reason we can't eradicate addiction in the next 20 or 30 years. We can do it by fixing the part of the brain that turns on you during drug addiction and encourages you to kill yourself against your will. I think addiction is the most beatable of all the major problems we face. And I think we will."

The Stress Culture

It's not the first time a doctor has predicted the end of addiction. In his book "Slaying the Dragon: The History of Addiction Treatment and Recovery in America," William L. White recounts how in the 1800's, countless "medications" like Knights' Tonics for Inebriates promised to remove "the craving for a stimulant that those who have been addicted to the use of ardent spirits know so well." In the 1905 Sears, Roebuck & Company catalog, a person struggling with opium or morphine addiction could buy a bottled "cure" for 69 cents.

Most of these miracle potions were promoted as a result of important scientific and medical breakthroughs. Science, it seems, has always been just about to save us from addiction. "But it has never lived up to its promise," says Bruce Alexander, emeritus professor of psychology at Simon Fraser University in British Columbia, "and I don't believe the science will live up to its promise now, either. Addiction doesn't demand a scientific solution."

Alexander is among a vocal group of addiction researchers who argue that focusing on a pill to treat addicts fails to address the primary cause of becoming and staying hooked: our unhappy, disconnected lives. Beginning in the late 1970's, Alexander and his team of researchers at Simon Fraser set out to study the role of our environment on addictive behavior. Until that point, most scientists studying addiction put rats in small, individual cages and watched as they eagerly guzzled drug-laced solutions and ignored water and food, sometimes dying in the process. This phenomenon was noted — first by researchers, then drug czars, then parents trying to keep their children off drugs — as proof of the inherently addictive quality of drugs and of the inevitable addiction of any human who used them. This was false, of course. Most people who use drugs don't become addicted.

So what made all those lab rats lose their minds? Bruce Alexander and his research team had a rather simple hypothesis: The rats had awful lives. They were stressed, lonely, bored and looking to self-medicate. To prove it, Alexander created a lab-rat heaven he called Rat Park. The 200-square-foot residence featured bright balls and tin cans to play with, painted creeks and trees to look at and plenty of room for mating and socializing.

Alexander took 16 lucky rats and plopped them into Rat Park, where they were offered water or a sweet, morphine-based cocktail (rats love sweets). Alexander offered the same two drinks to the control group of rats he left isolated in cages. The results? The rat-parkers were apparently having too much fun to bother with artificial highs, because they hardly touched the morphine solution, no matter how sweet Alexander and his colleagues made it. The isolated and arguably depressed rats, on the other hand, eagerly got high, drinking more than a dozen times the amount of the morphine solution as the rats in paradise.

When I spoke with Alexander recently, he predicted that unless we undergo a "cultural renaissance" and all start living in a human version of his rat park (which he conceded isn't likely), we won't be eradicating addiction anytime soon. While Volkow of the institute on drug abuse doesn't agree with Alexander that developing addiction medications is a fruitless enterprise, she does say that a positive and nurturing environment, particularly during childhood and adolescence, is a strong protector against addiction. Volkow says that addicts are more likely to have been unnecessarily stressed during childhood (from neglect; emotional, physical or sexual abuse; or poverty) and that they're less able to deal with stress as adults.

Studies show that animals who are stressed during early development are more likely to self-administer drugs later in life and that living in an enriched environment — one with a minimal amount of strain and anxiety, like Rat Park — appears to protect animals from developing addictive behavior.

And remember the dopamine D2 receptors that some hypothesize may protect us from abusing drugs? There is evidence that our environment can affect those, too. In 2003, researchers at the Wake Forest School of Medicine measured the levels of dopamine D2 receptors of 20 macaque monkeys while they were housed in isolation. They then assigned the monkeys to social groups of four monkeys each, letting natural social hierarchies develop. Three months later, they tested the levels of D2 receptors again.

The dominant monkeys — who, the theory goes, were much less stressed and anxious than the subordinate ones — had 20 percent higher D2 receptor function, while the submissive ones were unchanged. The monkeys were then taught how to self-administer cocaine by pressing a lever, with researchers finding that the dominant monkeys took significantly less cocaine than the subordinate ones.

Interestingly, though, when the animals that seemed to be protected from addiction were given cocaine repeatedly, the number of their D2 receptors eventually went down, and they then became addicted. The moral of the monkey story, Volkow says, is that environment — if good or bad enough — can sometimes trump genetics and biology.

"Some people may be naturally better protected against addiction than others," Volkow says, "but that's not enough to keep someone from becoming addicted. The same thing is true for those who are genetically predisposed. We know from twin and family studies that about 50 percent of a person's vulnerability to addiction is genetic. But if you're never exposed to illegal drugs, or if you grow up and live in an environment without trauma and too many stressors, you probably won't become addicted."

If It's Not One Addiction, It's Another

What Volkow and other researchers can't yet explain is why we choose one particular manifestation of addiction over another. Why do some of us become addicted to cocaine, while others are hooked on alcohol or cigarettes? Researchers hypothesize that environmental availability and genetic predisposition both play a part, but they don't know for sure.

Further complicating the question is that many people are addicted to more than one thing. Howard Shaffer, director of the division on addictions at the Cambridge Health Alliance, an affiliate of Harvard Medical School, suggests a "syndrome model" of addiction: each outwardly unique manifestation of addiction is actually part of the same underlying disorder. Shaffer's syndrome model argues that behavioral addictions (like gambling, sex and eating) can be just as powerful as an addiction to heroin or crystal meth, and his belief is gaining acceptance among neuroscientists and addiction researchers, many of whom used to dismiss this idea as a product of an American culture that's addicted to calling everything an addiction.

But by studying the brain's reward and pleasure systems, researchers are discovering that drugs and powerfully rewarding behaviors like gambling and sex affect it in similar ways. Neurologists at the University Medical Center Hamburg-Eppendorf in Germany, for example, found that pathological gamblers, like drug addicts, have a sluggish reward system that doesn't react normally to pleasing stimuli. The scientists used an M.R.I. scanner to compare the brain responses of 12 gambling addicts and 12 nonaddicted people to a card-guessing game. Subjects were told to pick a playing card, and if the card turned out to be red, they won a euro.

The game activated the ventral striatum, an important part of the brain's reward system. Those nonaddicts who picked a winning card had increased blood flow to the striatum, but the gambling addicts who picked the right card had much less of it (their reward system was less active). It was as if their brains, which were accustomed to powerful rewards, were saying, "You call this silly prize a reward?" The same kind of indifference to basic rewards has been seen in the ventral striatum of cocaine addicts.

"People addicted to gambling and drugs look a lot alike," Shaffer told me when I visited him in his office in March. "Gamblers have to increase their bets to get the same level of excitement, just like someone addicted to drugs who has to keep using more to get an effect. When addicted gamblers cut back, they experience withdrawal symptoms that look like stimulant withdrawal. They get depressed, they're irritable and they have trouble sleeping. And if they gamble again, they can make the symptoms go away for the short run."

While Shaffer focuses much of his recent behavioral addiction research on gamblers, Volkow studies overeaters and also finds many similarities to drug addicts and alcoholics — including the fact that obese subjects have lower levels of dopamine D2 receptors than those who eat normally. "Because we know that many people are addicted to more than one thing and that many people switch addictions," she told me at the M.I.T. conference, "in my own research I'm mostly interested in developing medications that could work across a variety of addictions."

An Addict's Perspective

What do addicts think about all this focus on their brains? William C. Moyers, a recovery advocate (and the son of the journalist Bill Moyers) who for 12 years has been free of crack and alcohol, was invited to speak at the M.I.T. conference. In a room full of scientists and addiction researchers obsessed with the intricacies of the human brain, Moyers read a lecture that reminded them that treating addiction might be even more complicated than they thought.

"I have an illness with origins in the brain. . .but I also suffered with the other component of this illness," he told the gathered researchers and scientists, some of whom dutifully took notes. "I was born with what I like to call a hole in my soul.. . .A pain that came from the reality that I just wasn't good enough. That I wasn't deserving enough. That you weren't paying attention to me all the time. That maybe you didn't like me enough."

The conference room was as quiet as it had been all day. "For us addicts," he continued, "recovery is more than just taking a pill or maybe getting a shot.. . .Recovery is also about the spirit, about dealing with that hole in the soul."

Benoit Denizet-Lewis is a contributing writer for the magazine. He is working on a book about addiction in America.

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Smoking idiots

This most pernicious evil - smoking - is evidence of the most hateful laziness and cowardice imaginable - and i am aiming this comment at those who defend their "right" to smoke while placing MILLIONS of children and adults at death risk every day.

SMOKERS, Get off your lazy asses and go outside to smoke you lazy cowards. I know of what i speak: my grandmother was killed by secondhand smoke that my grnadfather selfishly poured into the air around her for more than 63 years.


June 27, 2006

Surgeon General Warns of Secondhand Smoke

Surgeon General Richard H. Carmona declared today that the evidence is now "indisputable" that secondhand smoke is an "alarming" public health hazard, and warned that measures like no-smoking sections don't provide adequate protection.

"Smoke-free environments are the only approach that protects nonsmokers from the dangers of secondhand smoke," he said.

Dr. Carmona did not call for a federal ban on smoking in workplaces, bars and restaurants, as a growing number of cities and states have done. He said he saw his role as providing the American people and Congress with definitive information on the subject.

"We hope that they will make the right decision on behalf of their constituents," Dr. Carmona said.

Smoking bans have often been bitterly resisted by business owners worried about losing customers and by groups skeptical about the dangers posed by secondhand smoke. But Dr. Carmona today said that "overwhelming" evidence showed that secondhand smoke is responsible for "tens of thousands" of premature deaths from heart disease and cancer among nonsmokers each year.

"I am here to say the debate is over: the science is clear," Dr. Carmona said at a televised news conference this morning, at which he released a report updating the original surgeon general's study of secondhand smoke in 1986.

In the years since then, hundreds of studies have indicated that the harm caused by secondhand smoke is far greater than earlier believed, he said. The report's findings include the following:

* There is no safe level of secondhand smoke, and even brief exposure can cause harm, especially for people already suffering from heart or respiratory diseases.

* For nonsmoking adults, exposure raises the risk of heart disease by 25 to 30 percent and of cancer by 20 to 30 percent, and accounted for an estimated 46,000 premature deaths from heart disease and 3,000 premature deaths from cancer last year.

* Secondhand smoke is a cause of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome, or SIDS, accounting for an estimated 430 deaths last year. The risk is elevated both for children whose mothers were exposed during pregnancy and for children exposed in their homes after birth.

* The impact on the health and development of children is more severe than previously thought. "Children are especially vulnerable to the poisons in secondhand smoke," Dr. Carmona said.

* Efforts to minimize the effect of secondhand smoke by separating smokers and nonsmokers are ineffective, as are ventilation systems meant to remove smoke from a shared space.

* While exposure has declined, as many as 60 percent of nonsmokers show biological evidence of encountering secondhand smoke, and an estimated 22 percent of children are exposed to secondhand smoke in their homes.

Studies conducted by the Centers for Disease Control show that great progress has been made in reducing exposure, Dr. Carmona said. The amount of cotinine — the form nicotine takes after being metabolized — fell by 75 percent among adults, when samples taken between 1999 and 2002 were compared with samples taken a decade earlier.

But Dr. Carmona said more needed to be done, particularly to protect children.

He urged parents who smoke not only to quit, but to move their smoking outside while they are trying to quit. "Make the home a smoke-free environment," he said.

Dr. Cheryl G. Healton, the president and chief executive of the American Legacy Foundation, a nonprofit group created to use settlement money from tobacco companies to educate young people about the dangers of tobacco, called the report "groundbreaking" even though much of its information had been published in journal articles previously. Bringing it all together creates a persuasive case for smoking bans, she said.

But she said that many tobacco advocates would be hesitant about using it as a springboard to push for federal legislation creating smoke-free environments like those that have been adopted in many other countries and throughout most of Western Europe.

"The risk of approaching it nationally in this country is the extreme lobbying power that the tobacco industry has on the Hill," she said, and any national bill able to pass would likely be weaker than the bans adopted by municipalities.

The report issued today also went beyond the 1986 study by finding that evidence suggests possible links between secondhand smoking and some other cancers, including breast cancer, childhood cancer and nasal sinus cancer. It found no link to cervical cancer.

Earlier this year, the California Environmental Protection Agency issued a report that concluded that exposure to secondhand smoke was a cause of breast cancer.

The surgeon general's report also found a link between exposure to secondhand smoke by pregnant women and low birth weights for their children, and said that evidence suggests a possible link to premature delivery .

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Marriage


Men and women. Endless possibilities. Enjoy.

The New York Times
June 25, 2006
Modern Love
What Shamu Taught Me About a Happy Marriage
By AMY SUTHERLAND

AS I wash dishes at the kitchen sink, my husband paces behind me, irritated. "Have you seen my keys?" he snarls, then huffs out a loud sigh and stomps from the room with our dog, Dixie, at his heels, anxious over her favorite human's upset.

In the past I would have been right behind Dixie. I would have turned off the faucet and joined the hunt while trying to soothe my husband with bromides like, "Don't worry, they'll turn up." But that only made him angrier, and a simple case of missing keys soon would become a full-blown angst-ridden drama starring the two of us and our poor nervous dog.

Now, I focus on the wet dish in my hands. I don't turn around. I don't say a word. I'm using a technique I learned from a dolphin trainer.

I love my husband. He's well read, adventurous and does a hysterical rendition of a northern Vermont accent that still cracks me up after 12 years of marriage.

But he also tends to be forgetful, and is often tardy and mercurial. He hovers around me in the kitchen asking if I read this or that piece in The New Yorker when I'm trying to concentrate on the simmering pans. He leaves wadded tissues in his wake. He suffers from serious bouts of spousal deafness but never fails to hear me when I mutter to myself on the other side of the house. "What did you say?" he'll shout.

These minor annoyances are not the stuff of separation and divorce, but in sum they began to dull my love for Scott. I wanted — needed — to nudge him a little closer to perfect, to make him into a mate who might annoy me a little less, who wouldn't keep me waiting at restaurants, a mate who would be easier to love.

So, like many wives before me, I ignored a library of advice books and set about improving him. By nagging, of course, which only made his behavior worse: he'd drive faster instead of slower; shave less frequently, not more; and leave his reeking bike garb on the bedroom floor longer than ever.

We went to a counselor to smooth the edges off our marriage. She didn't understand what we were doing there and complimented us repeatedly on how well we communicated. I gave up. I guessed she was right — our union was better than most — and resigned myself to stretches of slow-boil resentment and occasional sarcasm.

Then something magical happened. For a book I was writing about a school for exotic animal trainers, I started commuting from Maine to California, where I spent my days watching students do the seemingly impossible: teaching hyenas to pirouette on command, cougars to offer their paws for a nail clipping, and baboons to skateboard.

I listened, rapt, as professional trainers explained how they taught dolphins to flip and elephants to paint. Eventually it hit me that the same techniques might work on that stubborn but lovable species, the American husband.

The central lesson I learned from exotic animal trainers is that I should reward behavior I like and ignore behavior I don't. After all, you don't get a sea lion to balance a ball on the end of its nose by nagging. The same goes for the American husband.

Back in Maine, I began thanking Scott if he threw one dirty shirt into the hamper. If he threw in two, I'd kiss him. Meanwhile, I would step over any soiled clothes on the floor without one sharp word, though I did sometimes kick them under the bed. But as he basked in my appreciation, the piles became smaller.

I was using what trainers call "approximations," rewarding the small steps toward learning a whole new behavior. You can't expect a baboon to learn to flip on command in one session, just as you can't expect an American husband to begin regularly picking up his dirty socks by praising him once for picking up a single sock. With the baboon you first reward a hop, then a bigger hop, then an even bigger hop. With Scott the husband, I began to praise every small act every time: if he drove just a mile an hour slower, tossed one pair of shorts into the hamper, or was on time for anything.

I also began to analyze my husband the way a trainer considers an exotic animal. Enlightened trainers learn all they can about a species, from anatomy to social structure, to understand how it thinks, what it likes and dislikes, what comes easily to it and what doesn't. For example, an elephant is a herd animal, so it responds to hierarchy. It cannot jump, but can stand on its head. It is a vegetarian.

The exotic animal known as Scott is a loner, but an alpha male. So hierarchy matters, but being in a group doesn't so much. He has the balance of a gymnast, but moves slowly, especially when getting dressed. Skiing comes naturally, but being on time does not. He's an omnivore, and what a trainer would call food-driven.

Once I started thinking this way, I couldn't stop. At the school in California, I'd be scribbling notes on how to walk an emu or have a wolf accept you as a pack member, but I'd be thinking, "I can't wait to try this on Scott."

On a field trip with the students, I listened to a professional trainer describe how he had taught African crested cranes to stop landing on his head and shoulders. He did this by training the leggy birds to land on mats on the ground. This, he explained, is what is called an "incompatible behavior," a simple but brilliant concept.

Rather than teach the cranes to stop landing on him, the trainer taught the birds something else, a behavior that would make the undesirable behavior impossible. The birds couldn't alight on the mats and his head simultaneously.

At home, I came up with incompatible behaviors for Scott to keep him from crowding me while I cooked. To lure him away from the stove, I piled up parsley for him to chop or cheese for him to grate at the other end of the kitchen island. Or I'd set out a bowl of chips and salsa across the room. Soon I'd done it: no more Scott hovering around me while I cooked.

I followed the students to SeaWorld San Diego, where a dolphin trainer introduced me to least reinforcing syndrome (L. R. S.). When a dolphin does something wrong, the trainer doesn't respond in any way. He stands still for a few beats, careful not to look at the dolphin, and then returns to work. The idea is that any response, positive or negative, fuels a behavior. If a behavior provokes no response, it typically dies away.

In the margins of my notes I wrote, "Try on Scott!"

It was only a matter of time before he was again tearing around the house searching for his keys, at which point I said nothing and kept at what I was doing. It took a lot of discipline to maintain my calm, but results were immediate and stunning. His temper fell far shy of its usual pitch and then waned like a fast-moving storm. I felt as if I should throw him a mackerel.

Now he's at it again; I hear him banging a closet door shut, rustling through papers on a chest in the front hall and thumping upstairs. At the sink, I hold steady. Then, sure enough, all goes quiet. A moment later, he walks into the kitchen, keys in hand, and says calmly, "Found them."

Without turning, I call out, "Great, see you later."

Off he goes with our much-calmed pup.

After two years of exotic animal training, my marriage is far smoother, my husband much easier to love. I used to take his faults personally; his dirty clothes on the floor were an affront, a symbol of how he didn't care enough about me. But thinking of my husband as an exotic species gave me the distance I needed to consider our differences more objectively.

I adopted the trainers' motto: "It's never the animal's fault." When my training attempts failed, I didn't blame Scott. Rather, I brainstormed new strategies, thought up more incompatible behaviors and used smaller approximations. I dissected my own behavior, considered how my actions might inadvertently fuel his. I also accepted that some behaviors were too entrenched, too instinctive to train away. You can't stop a badger from digging, and you can't stop my husband from losing his wallet and keys.

PROFESSIONALS talk of animals that understand training so well they eventually use it back on the trainer. My animal did the same. When the training techniques worked so beautifully, I couldn't resist telling my husband what I was up to. He wasn't offended, just amused. As I explained the techniques and terminology, he soaked it up. Far more than I realized.

Last fall, firmly in middle age, I learned that I needed braces. They were not only humiliating, but also excruciating. For weeks my gums, teeth, jaw and sinuses throbbed. I complained frequently and loudly. Scott assured me that I would become used to all the metal in my mouth. I did not.

One morning, as I launched into yet another tirade about how uncomfortable I was, Scott just looked at me blankly. He didn't say a word or acknowledge my rant in any way, not even with a nod.

I quickly ran out of steam and started to walk away. Then I realized what was happening, and I turned and asked, "Are you giving me an L. R. S.?" Silence. "You are, aren't you?"

He finally smiled, but his L. R. S. has already done the trick. He'd begun to train me, the American wife.

Amy Sutherland is the author of "Kicked, Bitten and Scratched: Life and Lessons at the Premier School for Exotic Animal Trainers" (Viking, June 2006). She lives in Boston and in Portland, Me.
###

Thursday, June 22, 2006

Coffee's High End


Geoff Watts, the buyer for Intelligentsia Coffee, grades some coffee.


June 22, 2006

A Coffee Connoisseur on a Mission: Buy High and Sell High

GRANADA, Nicaragua — Geoff Watts turned up recently at the ceremony capping Nicaragua's 2006 Cup of Excellence coffee competition in the steamy 500-year-old Convent of San Francisco here. Mr. Watts, 32, is the green coffee buyer for Intelligentsia Coffee, a fast-growing privately owned retail and wholesale company in Chicago.

Coffee, Mr. Watts says, is his life, and he tries to attend most of the competitions in Latin America each year to find the best beans and build lasting relationships with growers.

"Relationship coffee" is one term Mr. Watts uses to describe how he does business — another is "direct trade."

"I find a coffee I love, build a direct relationship with the grower and then pay at least 25 percent above the Fair Trade price," he said in an interview. He also lavishes time and resources on his growers, inviting groups of them to Chicago to learn about the consumer side of the coffee business. Fair Trade certification, which is monitored by an international nonprofit organization, is intended to guarantee fair wages and labor conditions for farmers in developing countries.

Mr. Watts and the founder and chief executive of Intelligentsia, Doug Zell, do not ascribe to the "buy low, sell high" business model. They buy high and sell high. In the coming years, both say they expect to pay 50 percent, 100 percent, even 200 percent above Fair Trade rates for beans so good that customers will pay $20 and more a pound retail. "On the grower side and the consumer side, we're trying to create a culture of quality," Mr. Watts said.

Mr. Zell underwrites the $150,000 to $200,000 annual cost of Mr. Watts's relationship-building and his seven months of travel each year in coffee-growing countries because he expects these investments to pay off as quality increases and customers learn to appreciate artisanal coffees from around the world.

To speed this development, Intelligentsia has devised a plan that offers farmers financial incentives for improving growing methods and producing superior beans. Mr. Watts was in Nicaragua to introduce this new approach, which mandates direct dealings with farmers and limits the role of the cooperatives that currently market most Nicaraguan coffee.

Some in the specialty coffee business have had their doubts about Intelligentsia's business model and its highflying ways. "Intelligentsia was known as this stupid and naïve company that overpaid farmers and carried too much debt," said a coffee buyer, Peter Giuliano, a principal of Counter Culture Coffee in Durham, N.C., one of a handful of top-quality roasters that pay a premium for quality. Stumptown, based in Portland, Ore., is another.

Mr. Watts acknowledges that in the past the company had sometimes overemphasized altruism and underemphasized business. Recently, however, the tut-tutting has been silenced as Mr. Zell has turned Intelligentsia into a profit-making venture, with 2005 sales of $9.4 million and a 2006 growth rate of 21 percent, according to company figures.

Coffee matters in Nicaragua, and all the important people were gathered for the Cup of Excellence ceremony: government officials, mill owners, exporters and representatives from the cooperatives that represent the country's 27,000 small coffee growers.

As darkness fell and the speeches dragged on, Mr. Watts, milling about in the relative cool of the church's loggia, greeted a coffee grower, Norman Canales. He is the son of the 2004 Cup of Excellence first-place winner, Daniel Canales, who was the first organic grower to win. Norman and his brothers Milton and Donald also grow organic coffee recognized by Cup of Excellence. Intelligentsia is the sole buyer of the Canales family's coffee.

"My family thanks God for Cup of Excellence," Norman Canales said, giving Mr. Watts an exuberant hug. "Cup of Excellence helped Geoff Watts and Intelligentsia find us. Now we get a high price for our coffee and we consider Geoff to be our guardian angel."

The morning after the Cup of Excellence ceremony, Mr. Watts rose early in preparation for the real business at hand. He was to meet the growers of the Las Brumas coffee cooperative, four hours from Granada in the hills above Matagalpa. In 2003, these farmers walked away with many Cup of Excellence honors. Since then, Mr. Watts has been buying much of their coffee.

As the driver, who had arrived hours late, played pothole hopscotch on the rutted highway, Mr. Watts and his companions — Mr. Giuliano of Counter Culture Coffee and K. C. O'Keefe, an Intelligentsia consultant based in Lima, Peru — talked coffee. Time and again, they returned to the financial differential between ordinary and extraordinary coffee. Farmers growing the best beans earn only pennies more than those whose crop is ordinary, though they work much harder, the men agreed.

While others recognized the problem, Intelligentsia was instituting a policy for changing this. But to do so, it would have to alter the way the cooperative system works, because all coffee growers within the co-op would no longer be paid the same. Like the growers of estate-quality wines, some would be paid a premium for excellence. Mr. Watts was going to Las Brumas to explain the new pricing structure.

A fiesta, paid for by Intelligentsia, was already under way at Las Brumas — 4,400 feet above sea level, with no electricity — when the group arrived. After socializing, 35 coffee growers and their families crowded into an outbuilding to hear Mr. Watts. Speaking in somewhat tortured Spanish, he began his presentation by praising the growers of Las Brumas and offering to underwrite several capital improvements.

With Mr. O'Keefe, the consultant, translating, Mr. Watts then addressed the purpose of the meeting. He told the farmers that from now on he would pay $1.60 a pound for AA coffee that earned a cupping score of 84 to 87 (on a scale of 100); $1.85 a pound for AAA coffees that earned scores of 88-93; and an unheard-of $3 a pound for extraordinary coffee that scored 94 and above. Furthermore, Mr. Watts said, these rates would never decline, they would only increase.

The response was muted, perhaps fearful. Growers in Las Brumas had never before been offered direct payment: in the past, the co-op received payment, and all farmers were paid the same price for their coffee.

The growers wanted to know how much Cecocafen, the huge cooperative that includes the small Las Brumas co-op as a member, would skim off the top.

None, Mr. Watts, answered. "Cecocafen would be paid a separate fee of around 26 cents per pound."

But why should Cecocafen take money, any money from Las Brumas growers? Mr. Watts was asked. Cecocafen, he answered, was paid for performing "essential services," like dry-milling the beans, prefinancing the crop and providing technical assistance.

And then the question that went to the heart of the matter: How could Las Brumas farmers be sure that the judging of their coffees — on which their pay rate would depend — would be fair, impartial and consistent?

Mr. Watts tried to reassure the farmers, telling them that Intelligentsia would build a cupping lab in the village and teach Las Brumas growers to judge their own coffee.

Then the sun began to set and Mr. Watts departed, leaving the mountain cool for the heat and humidity of Managua, where another flight awaited him. Nothing was settled. But Mr. Watts would be back in the fall, and he was relying on the relationship of trust he had established with Las Brumas to persuade farmers to accept his offer for next year's crop.

Mr. Giuliano, who is sometimes a partner with Mr. Watts in buying beans at auction, praised Intelligentsia's direct trade program, calling the promise never to reduce rates "unprecedented." The current Fair Trade price for coffee is $1.26 a pound for nonorganic beans and $1.41 for organic. What many do not understand is that Fair Trade relates to working conditions, not the quality of coffee beans.

In the meantime, on June 22, the top 10 Cup of Excellence coffees will be auctioned online. Buyers from the United States, Europe and Japan are expected to bid on this year's top coffees. The winning growers are traveling to Managua to watch the monitor as bids are placed and the prices for their coffees rise. The rates paid for Cup of Excellence coffees have risen wildly in the last few years. Intelligentsia and other buyers have paid $40 a pound and more for microlots of estate-quality coffees — they incur these costs for their promotional value.

Because chance and the weather play such a role in growing coffee, winners change every year. If they are lucky, this year's auction winners will get a once-in-a-lifetime cash infusion large enough to buy another piece of land or upgrade equipment. And if they are luckier still, their victory may lead to a visit from Mr. Watts of Intelligentsia or someone like him offering not just a sales agreement, but a relationship.

Monday, June 19, 2006

Health Notes

Dive In
Everyone Into the Water
Everyone Into the Water
Nicole Bengiveno/The New York Times
Blacks have worse drowning rates than whites, partly because of fewer chances to learn to swim. But that is changing. In New York City, 7-year-old Ousmane Sanogo participated in a meet; he won his heat.

The factors that fostered swimming's racial gap are stubborn and the solutions are expensive.

Fitness
Sidewalks Are for Walking
Sidewalks Are for Walking

Walking around the city can give you the same health benefits as the treadmill walker going nowhere.

No Day at the Beach
No Day at the Beach

Should you still insist on going to the beach, you might glean from my detractions a few ways to make your outing comparatively safer, if no less ill advised.

From the Director, an ER Season Preview

Emergency departments throughout New York City are busy preparing for the exuberance and miseries of summer in the city.

The Perils of Pollen and Tricky Ticks
The Perils of Pollen and Tricky Ticks

The West Nile Virus and Lyme disease are at their worst in the summer, but both are less of a threat than asthma.

Taking the Heat, Even in Texas
Taking the Heat, Even in Texas

Heat illness affects thousands of children and teenagers every year and summer camps are a prime setting.

A Sunny Day Can Mean All Sorts of Distress

The sun, heat and even air-conditioning can intensify symptoms of certain autoimmune diseases and cause problems that linger for months, if not years.

One Pill Makes You Hotter and One Pill ...
One Pill Makes You Hotter and One Pill ...

Some medications can interfere with the body's ability to sweat and thereby cool off, while others can directly affect the brain's thermostat.


Wearing It
Amid the Supergear, Cozy Cotton Reigns
Amid the Supergear, Cozy Cotton Reigns

Even the most well-heeled urban professionals seem compelled to fall back on plain-old cotton for their workout wear.

Fluids
Energy Drinks Are Fueling Concerns
Energy Drinks Are Fueling Concerns

As the energy drink market grows, so do concerns about the safety of combining so much stimulation with exercise.

Pale Mutts Take Cover
Pale Mutts Take Cover

Veterinarians recommend that pet owners use sunblock on their dogs and shade them when possible.

Reader's Opinions
Fitness and Nutrition

How do you stay in shape?

The Rub on Sunscreen

We already know almost everything about sunscreen, right?

Lactic Acid Will Be Sorely Missed

Lactic acid is now seen as an important fuel source for the body.

Participation
The Winner Is ... It Doesn't Matter
The Winner Is ... It Doesn't Matter

Noncompetitive active events attract beginner to elite athletes seeking the support of a race, without the stress.

Hippie Shoes Reveal Their Inner Heidis
Hippie Shoes Reveal Their Inner Heidis

The aggressively hip look of some new shoes may signal a new front in footwear: fashion finally meets comfort.###


Sunday, June 18, 2006

Fathers

Beatles on the radio, road trips, car discussion. This article could apply to my father as well. Enjoy.

Photo:
Family photo of Tiana, Andrew and Eli


The long ride
With telephone poles whizzing by, the Beatles blaring on the stereo, and my kids strapped in the back seat, I learned to be a father on the road.

By Andrew Leonard

Jun. 17, 2006 | Dublin, California, headed east on Interstate 580 to Interstate 5, November, 2004

My kids are discussing number theory in the back of the minivan. Eli, 7, is explaining how multiplication works to Tiana, 10. Tiana's contribution is a short discourse on the role of the number zero, a digit whose awesome powers Eli considers "crazy."

This is going to be a good ride, I think. From the sound of their chatter, they are relaxed and ready to road trip. We have just begun a six-hour journey from Berkeley to my grandmother's house in Lakewood, a suburban city just south of Los Angeles. We are old hands at this jaunt -- we know every rest stop, gas station, and highway interchange along Interstate 5's spear-thrust through California's vast Central Valley.

Our rituals are all in place. The Beatles' "White Album" is playing on the stereo, because all road trips must begin with the sound of the jetliner that opens "Back In the U.S.S.R." We picked up some chicken wings and raspberries from the grocery store, and the food is carefully balanced on top of a small cooler wedged between their bucket seats, right in front of a garbage bag. They are cocooned amid a swathe of blankets, pillows, and favorite stuffed animals: "Lion-y" for Tiana, "Alligatey" for Eli.

The sun is beginning to set, because long experience has taught us that when you're trying to make good time on the Berkeley-Lakewood express, you start at twilight. The kids eat their dinner, and then they drift off to sleep, lulled by the familiar rhythm of the minivan's passage. And I cruise, my world comfortably and completely reduced to the contents of the car.

I never expected, before becoming a parent, that some of my favorite moments of fatherhood would arrive while driving 75 miles per hour between the stockyards of Coalinga and the Tejon Pass. Looking back, maybe it isn't so surprising that that is where I grasped some of the most important lessons on how to be a good dad. When you're on the move, you define who you are and what your relationship is with your co-travelers at every step. You learn fast.

But what I find really intriguing is not how I found out how to be a father on the road, but how my kids learned how to be my children.

Ascending the Altamont Pass between Livermore and Tracy, Interstate 580, spring 1994

The baby is sleeping. We hit the road just before nap-time, and we're going to see how far we can get before she wakes up and starts demanding attention.

We are outfitted for a major land-war. We have car seat, stroller, and portable crib. We have a diaper bag, canisters of baby powder, a vast assortment of rattles and a hefty supply of cloth diapers. (Our friends think we're crazy for taking cloth diapers on the road, but hey, we're from Berkeley.) In the rash exuberance of new parents, we think nothing of crossing the great state of California with an infant in tow. Sure, we won't make the same time we did when we were unencumbered -- but match us up against anybody else with a six-month-old and we're confident our record will be impressive. We think we know what we're doing.

It's the pre-minivan era, and we're driving a behemoth 1967 cherry red Ford Galaxie convertible, which is not exactly ideal for total baby comfort. The radio is broken, and the engine leaks oil, and you've got to check the water in the radiator constantly.

But we have style. We're feeling good. We're finally back on the road after several sleepless months at home, holed up with a newborn. Jeni and I have always loved to travel. We've backpacked in Southeast Asia, road tripped across the country, from Berkeley all the way to northern Florida, sought out the obscurest, most roundabout routes, and driven nonstop through the night in headlong marathons. Now, for the first time, we're finally heading out on a serious car trip as a family. We've got the provisions, we've got P.J. Harvey on the boom box. So far so good.

Jeni and I plunged into parenthood in much the same way that we hurtled into marriage. It seemed like a good idea at the time but we didn't give it a whole lot of thought. Kind of like hitting the road without knowing exactly where you are headed, but on the general assumption that it's time to roll. We knew we wanted to do it, but I don't recall extended consideration of why. One day, we said to each other, hey, isn't it time to start a family? The next day, Jeni went off the pill, and within a couple of weeks, she was pregnant. Somewhere, a switch got flipped, and we went from being carefree lovers to prospective parents.

The baby is sleeping.

I-5, somewhere south of Fresno, summer 1995

It's hot. The kind of baking Central Valley heat that is great for ripening peaches and almonds but is hell on a one-and-a-half-year-old baby who is sick of being in her car seat, suffering from mild diarrhea, and utterly unwilling to nap for one more second. The gas station in this benighted section of near desert has no changing table, of course, so an impromptu changing station has been set up in the back of the new, but already slightly battered, minivan.

We no longer bother with cloth diapers on the road -- it's all about convenience now -- but changing the baby is still a chore. And it's my turn, as well-proven by the glare Jeni gives me when I not-so-innocently ask who dealt with the last nasty diaper.

I am only slightly less grumpy than my daughter. We are making terrible time. Tiana only slept for half an hour before starting to whimper, and since then it seems as if we've stopped at every exit. She's teething, and we forgot a teething ring, so we tried to find one on the way. At one point she was howling so loud that we were forced to stop in the middle of absolutely nowhere, and wait, impatiently, while she played in the dirt on the side of the road.

I'm going to lose my mind if I hear Raffi's version of "Baby Beluga" one more time. Neither Jeni nor I have had much sleep in months, and our interaction with each other has been reduced to a series of militarily terse interchanges that deal mostly with logistics. Where did you put the diaper rash ointment? Stop the car. I have to breastfeed.

Just one and a half years into the age of parenthood, and road trips are no longer fun. They're tedious. Like so much of parenting a small child, they are drudgery, something to be gotten through, rather than savored. The first few trips with the baby were a novelty -- a learning experience: this is how it works now. But I'm not at all sure I like what I've learned -- how every coo of happiness from the baby is matched by a howl and a whimper, how much work it takes just to keep it all together. I long for the days when I zipped through the Valley, making just one stop at a gas station, wasting not one second. But my baby will not comply. Yes, yes, I remember all those warnings that after my child was born I would no longer be the master and arbiter of my own destiny. But deep down, I never really believed it. I thought I could outwit my kids, that my will would persevere over theirs. I miscalculated.

I'm ready for this road trip to be over. Two hundred miles from L.A. But it feels like 2,000, and I know that by the time I get there, I'm going to be too exhausted to enjoy it. And then it will be time to turn around and come back.

Just south of the Harris Ranch, headed north on I-5, fall 1999

It is the Sunday after Thanksgiving and we have made a disastrous strategic error. In past years, we left Los Angeles at sundown, counting on the kids (now there are two) to sleep while we burned rubber in the night. But arriving home in the wee hours and then starting the work week, short of sleep and with cranky kids, presents challenges that, as time goes by, we find increasingly wearying. Besides, there's a friend we want to visit in West Hollywood, so we decide to bite the bullet and return home after seeing her, in the middle of the day.

It's a nightmare. Half of California is on the move. I've seen slow traffic on this highway before, but nothing like this. There are stretches of road that go nearly 30 miles between gas stations, and still the traffic is stop and go, bumper to bumper, crawling along at 10-15 miles per hour. Time has no meaning in this wasteland. The land is empty, except for the occasional orchard. It is a vast, unpopulated expanse, save for these strips of highway, jammed with traffic sludge. Even worse, the Central Valley's notorious tule fog has settled in, a thick blanket of cotton that reduces visibility to just a few yards. So even when the traffic, on rare occasions, does speed up, there's always the danger of a sudden slowdown, announced only by a car's back end suddenly emerging from the fog, dead still.

My marriage isn't doing much better than the traffic, though I don't know it yet. It's all of a piece: the parenting, the travel, the stresses of balancing work and relationship and children. It comes out later in couples therapy -- Jeni resented the grueling airplane trips back to the East Coast to visit relatives every summer and Christmas. And rather than making the same drive to Lakewood every six months, she'd have preferred exploring some new territory, taking a less pre-planned route. Who, in their right mind, she wondered, would condemn themselves to I-5 in the Valley, again and again and again? It's quiet inside the minivan, and what conversation there is is directed at the mind-numbingly bored children.

In my bleakest moments, I can see this traffic jam as a metaphor. Once you become a parent, your actions become greatly circumscribed. You can't just hit the road without planning. You're stuck. Kids are an incredible time-suck -- keeping them fed, clothed, healthy. Short of sleep and irritable, you start to feel that you're running in place, and you wonder, is this why I became a parent?

But you don't actually have too much time to philosophize. Somewhere, a diaper needs changing.

On this trip, as mind-numbing as it is, there is actually one sign of hope. The kids are not so bored that they are making our lives any worse. On the contrary, to my amazement, they are doing pretty well. They've got plenty of food, they're busy with some books of stickers we got at the last gas station, they are amusing themselves. Tiana's musical taste has dramatically evolved. She is 5 years old and likes Tom Waits, Madonna, and No Doubt. She doesn't mind Sonic Youth or Nirvana. She even grooves on P.J. Harvey. Raffi is history.

The kids are gutting it out, making the best of a bad situation. I feel guilty for subjecting them to this hell, but respect their good spirits. They've been on enough road trips that they can deal with one that goes awry.

Pismo Beach, Highway 101, summer 2001

I'm soloing with the kids now, working my way up the coast on Highways 1 and 101. I've learned something. It's a July 4th weekend, and I took an extra day off of work so we could have a leisurely ride back home.

I've been telling them for weeks that this would be the plan. We can stop at every beach along the way, if they want. We'll keep our options open, take off for a hike if the countryside looks good.

Better late than never, I guess. The marriage has dissolved, and parenting, fifty percent of the time, has taught me that a straight line is not the shortest distance between two points. It's sometimes easier -- on the kids, on me -- to take a leisurely, we'll-get-there-when-we-get-there approach to life. To take the long road, instead of the short road.

Out there on Highway 1, as I appreciate the stunning panoramas of Pacific ocean clashing with California cliff, and listening to the oohs of my kids at each new explosion of spray hundreds of feet below, I sometimes wonder, would I still be happily married if I'd learned this lesson earlier? If one day, stuck in a traffic jam, I'd suddenly said to Jeni -- hell, forget about going to Lakewood, let's just stay here, get a motel room, and hang out at the beach? Why are we killing ourselves? Musings like this are pointless, of course -- there's no going back and taking that detour now. There's also, paradoxically, a certain freedom that comes with solo parenting. My mom, who divorced my father when I was 12, recently told me of the unexpected joy of being on one's own -- you don't have to ask anyone's permission to do anything, she told me. You just decide.

I see her point, but it's not completely accurate. I still do need to ask permission -- of my kids. It's hard to say whether Jeni and I could have fixed things -- marriages have their own cycles of ascent and decline -- not every one is fixable or should be fixed. But my relationship with my kids is a different matter. I'm in this with them for the long haul. And they have wrangled me into cooperation in a way their mother never managed. They've made it clear that their pleasure is my pleasure. That it's a lot more fun not to try to make the best time, that an hour building sand castles is worth ten on the Interstate.

But I've also wrangled them.

After two beaches, a cool diner for lunch, and some spectacular Highway 1 scenery, they are both beginning to drag. We had considered a stop at the Monterey Bay Aquarium or a hike around Big Sur, but I'm wondering if that makes sense. Still, the decision is up to them. I ask them: what do you want to do?

We want to get home.

All right. Daddy can do that. Strap yourselves in, kids.

Just south of Highway 140, headed north on I-5, spring 2003

"There it is! In-N-Out!"

Jubilation reigns inside the minivan. My kids have not been shy to declare their level of starvation for the last hour, but they have nixed McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, Taco Bell and everything else we've seen since crossing the Grapevine into the Valley.

This is mainly Tiana's doing. She has decided to renounce all fast food except In-N-Out. Why In-N-Out, she is often asked? Well, she answers, her face getting serious, did you know that In-N-Out is one of the only fast food chains that provides health care benefits to all its workers? Did you know that its French fries are made fresh?

I can only smile when I hear her lecture. This is not my doing. I never thought to impose any anti-fast food ideology on my kids. I suspect that their mother has been indoctrinating them, but ultimately, this is all about Tiana, the crusader for social justice. By age 8, my little girl has already marched against wars, protested at the state capitol against teacher layoffs, been interviewed on KPFA, Berkeley's leftwing radio station.

On this trip, she has decided that McDonald's is evil and she will never cross its threshold again. Eli, who has complete faith in Tiana on such matters, follows right along.

And so will I, despite my lifelong love of evil McDonald's fries. But if my daughter says we must no longer patronize their business, I will agree. I am, in fact, gleeful. When you start raising your children, you often think about how you want them to turn out, and how you will attempt to mold their progress. But you learn pretty quickly that you have less control over what happens than you might have hoped.

And so I scrutinize the maps and scroll through the Web pages, searching for In-N-Outs and planning our route. My obsessive compulsion to plan, and, when necessary, make good speed, plugs in nicely. I can tell the kids -- no, let's not stop here, there's an In-N-Out an hour away. And they're down with that.

There is only one In-N-Out along I-5 in the Central Valley, as far as I can tell, almost exactly halfway between L.A. and Berkeley. It becomes our midway Mecca -- a stopping point to look forward to, a place to rest and recharge. Yes, it's another god-awful highway interchange that but for the grace of the Interstate would be uninhabited by man or beast, but to us, it's an oasis. It's our In-N-Out. We eat our burgers and fries while sitting at ugly plastic tables barely shaded from the hot sun, pestered by flies and assaulted by the sounds and smells of a thousand passing cars. And we love it.

We are getting pretty good at this road trip thing.

I-5, headed north, about two hours from Berkeley, 2004

We've broken with tradition. Tiana wants to hear "The White Album" in the middle of the trip as well as the beginning. Of late, she's become obsessive about lyrics, and there's a lot to chew on here. Why don't we do what in the road, daddy? Then later: Daddy, you know why I like the Beatles? They don't just sing about love.

These are words, that when heard from your child, break you into tiny little pieces. I guess she didn't have any choice about being a Beatles fan, since I was her father. But then, I didn't have any choice either, because my parents force-fed me each new Beatles album as it came out. Parents, even as they are trained by their children in the proper way to do diapers, and drive long distances, train their children at the same time, to drive long distances without whimpering, and discourse on the hidden meanings of Beatles tunes.

We are returning from an epic road trip that included beaches, amusement parks, movies, relatives and random adventures. But we had no time for a leisurely trip back up the coast -- that would have required hours that simply aren't available. But I'm not worried about asking them to grin and bear it. We have full faith in each other at this point. They know that when they need a break from the trail, an exploration into the unknown -- it'll happen. And I know that when it's time to just drive, they'll sit back, discuss number theory, ponder rock lyrics, or explain to me the evils of the world. So it's back on the Five.

We pass by the stockyards of Coalinga. We've been here a hundred times before, but somehow, it seems, the kids have never seen it at a moment in broad daylight when the cattle are pushed together in tight masses as far as you can see. It's quite a sight, those placid bovine millions, and it's one I have always appreciated, since it seems to lay bare the reality of our fast food nation. Around the next bend, I warn the kids, you are about to see something that is a key part of the world of McDonald's, and yes, even In-N-Out. As we crest a hill and the vista spreads before us, they both break out in cries of wonder.

Experiencing that wonder through them is why, I know now, I became a parent. I may not have known it consciously before they arrived, but it seems to me that that is what pushed me here, and what keeps me going. Witnessing Tiana rage against injustice, I feel strengthened in my own politics. Watching Eli's eyes widen at the sight of a million cows, mine crack open a little further. I settle comfortably at the wheel, knowing that they are secure behind me. It was a lot of work raising these kids, and having them raise me, but now that we've figured each other out, we make a pretty good working team.

The road beckons.

-- By Andrew Leonard