Monday, April 02, 2007

Baseball - the sexiest game!


Why Baseball Is the Sexiest Game
By Elizabeth Bales Frank

Baseball is as sexy as a spectator sport gets. Let me tell you right off the bat (as it were) what I don't mean by that. I don't mean anything having to do with groupies, so you can forget about Bull Durham and its only-in-Hollywood Whitman-spouting, financially carefree heroine. And you can forget any one player's private stupidities, covered so excessively by the media. In fact, forget about the players altogether, at least as far as their relative sexiness in the world of regular men goes. The players are only as sexy as the sport they're in. Tom Seaver was Tom Terrific, sure, once upon a time, but now he's just a guy in a crewneck with a 1969 haircut, sitting in an armchair pitching Oldsmobiles on television.

No, when I say sexy, I mean the nature of the intimacy between the game and its fans, between those who make baseball and those for whom baseball is made, which is all of us. Look at it this way: Football is a game, basketball is a sport, but baseball is a state of mind.

Baseball is the only game that invites you in as it unfolds at its own pace, not predetermined but dependent—like romance—on the mood, condition, energy, and skill of the two sides in question. Every romance has at core its peculiar myth: "We have a lot of fun" or "The two of us are really hot together" or "We're friends at the bottom of it all." So does every baseball team that makes itself a legend: the team is a stormy rotation of power and clean-up, for example, or a harmonious squad of speed and stealth. Will you ever forget your first love? Will you ever completely forsake the first team that grabbed a piece of you and wouldn't let go?

Baseball courts you. The action hovers coyly, flicking glances at you (still watching me up there?), and then everything explodes into some wholly unanticipated activity that just delights you, that takes your breath away. Football, basketball, hockey, on the other hand—they scamper along within regulation lines, guided by a regulation clock, with contact limited by heavy protective gear, with penalties imposed for all kinds of nasty personal fouls.

This is not how friends behave.

I've heard men say that when they think of sex and sports, they think of football. Huh? On whose behalf were you thinking, dear? Perhaps these guys were distracted by the image of the homecoming queen bonding with the glamorous quarterback. This is not sexy. This is a couple archetype. Ron and Nancy Reagan were a couple archetype. Were they sexy?

Football is about as seductive as a stag party. Football, in fact, is a stag party—a group of macho guys behaving like louts, destroying property, trying to do maximum damage to and impress the hell out of one another, and then bringing on the dancing girls when they want to take a rest.

Baseball on the other hand, is for adults. In other sports, you can get all your buddies to beat on all the other guys' buddies on your behalf, but in baseball, when you stand out there on the field, even though you're with your team, you're standing out there all alone. This makes the players partly independent, partly vulnerable; part of the community, yet loners at heart—kind of like Gary Cooper in High Noon.

Yes, well. Other sports provide continuous action (all the way down the field, hey!) but, along with it, a mob mentality. Where is the finesse in watching eighteen men fighting the clock and each other for possession of some oversized misshapen piece of leather? In baseball, the player cups the ball in one hand, and it fits perfectly. Think about that.

You see faces in baseball. You learn to recognize the code in a player's smile, in a pitcher's sigh on the mound, in a catcher's rueful shake of the head. You learn the trademarks, the quirks. He's favoring that knee. Better pull him. Can't you see that? What are you looking at? It's a game of thought, of pauses, of strategy, of a whole series of odd, intimate gestures that signal volumes of meaning between coach and player.

When I first began telling men that I wrote about baseball, I would receive a "heh-heh" kind of nervous reply, which puzzled me until one rattled soul pulled me aside to explain that, well, it was kind of an encroachment, wasn't it, to hear a girl talk about baseball, something he's always shared with his dad, something that's always been male. And now here comes a woman possibly looking at the players as sexual objects. I'm only glad I didn't grow up in his neighborhood, which sounds like a frightening, primitive place.

No wonder this guy is still single. Doesn't he realize that "avid baseball fan" is the best thing a woman could say about herself in a personal ad? Doesn't he understand the goodwill and physical well-being this phrase connotes? Does anyone really consider it feminine for a woman to profess (or truly stand behind) a disinterest in sports?

Listen. A woman who finds baseball boring is probably not very good in bed. She cannot tolerate tension or suspense. She lacks imagination and flexibility, and she lacks the wherewithal to fill her own empty spaces. A woman who does not like baseball is a woman who drains men with her monotonous penny-for-your-thoughts demands for constant entertainment. A woman who can't understand the fierce dance of wills between a champion base thief shuffling off first, teasing the mettle of a pitcher who has never thrown him out, who will abruptly pivot and fire and just miss . . . well, such a woman will never understand the first thing about seduction or about the pleasures of a real, grown-up flirtation.

And watch out for the woman who says, Sure, she likes baseball some, but not the really slow games where nothing happens (an Action Annie). No, she only likes the high-scoring games with lots of home runs, and she really only watches at World Series parties. Stay home! Life is not all high-scoring games, sweetheart; life, in fact, is mostly batting practice. A woman who cannot maintain her enthusiasm through a 1–1 extra-inning game that goes on into the middle of the night in an April sleet cannot be counted on to stand by a man's side through the long years ahead. A woman who would buy an extra scorecard in this situation, on the other hand, is the same woman who will, decades from now, turn and smile at her husband's gray temples in the bottom of the eighth during an afternoon game and gesture to deep center: "Look, dear, how the shadows spread across the field!"

All right, here it comes. Baseball and sex have much in common. Rhythm and timing are integral to both. Both, in their most sublime manifestation, unfold very slowly and explode into moments of ecstasy that are gone so fast there is nothing to do but marvel at them (or go to the instant replay). The difference—in both baseball and sex—between the good and the great is a difference of nuance, dedication, and a click that can't be summoned but then echoes in the air like divine applause over the pure of heart. Both can have season schedules lasting just long enough for us to begin to take them for granted. But in both cases, we would be advised to learn to appreciate. The Dodgers left Brooklyn, after all.

With baseball, as with romance, you get out of it what you put into it, unless you happen to be blessed with an exceptional team that takes care of everything. But that's usually not the case. Baseball is like love too—at least love as defined by the Supremes: It can't be hurried, don't come easy, and most of the time, you just got to wait. It's a game of give and take.

—EFQ

ELIZABETH BALES FRANK, a third generation Cardinals fan, is a novelist who lives in New York City.



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Friday, March 30, 2007

YOGA FACE ?

Skin Deep

Got Crow’s-Feet? Call the Downward Dog

Shiho Fukada for The New York Times

SAY AH Students in the Revita-Yoga class, a combination of yoga and facial exercises, at the New York Health & Racquet Club.

Published: March 29, 2007

FOR a Friday evening, the small, intimate workout room at the New York Health & Racquet Club on East 57th Street was comfortably full. A dozen people sat, their chins pointed toward the ceiling, their lips puckered as if preparing for a kiss.

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Bringing the Double Chin to Heel (March 29, 2007)

Shiho Fukada for The New York Times

Annelise Hagen leads the class.

Shiho Fukada for The New York Times

Shiho Fukada for The New York Times

Later, they took their index and middle fingers and tapped their mouths five times, with the hope of increasing lip fullness and color. If done each day, they were told, it would be just as if they had been injected with collagen.

“The resistance is what firms the muscles,” Annelise Hagen, the teacher, said of Revita-Yoga, which combines yoga and facial exercises and is billed as a way to combat frown lines, wrinkles and sagging. “Each pose, stretch or exercise is designed to relax the muscles and release the patterns people unconsciously etch into their skin.”

Want to sculpture and narrow your nose? Alternate breathing out of each nostril, Revita-Yoga teaches. Have crow’s-feet? Open the eyes wide to smooth the lines. As pale as the winter sky? A dose of downward dog can add color to the complexion while oxygenating the skin.

In an era when aging is treated as a disease and yoga is often touted as a cure-all, it is hardly surprising to see people combining the two. Classes are sprouting up all over the United States and so are books, marketed to the portion of the population that wants the benefits of the knife and the needle without the costs or the risks.

That it works is unlikely, say doctors who specialize in skin or facial physiology. But it does relax practitioners while playing into their desire to do something about perceived flaws in their skin.

“People want a healthy alternative to looking good without artificial substance,” said Ms. Hagen, a former actress whose book, “The Yoga Face,” is to be published this August by Avery, the health and wellness division of Penguin. “And they want to be in control of their appearance rather than relegating it to an authority. I’m teaching my students to consciously release muscles rather than paralyzing them, which is what Botox does.”

The idea of merging exercise and beauty is not new. Beauty magazines have long carried how-to articles on firming up the face. But the concept seems to have become imbued with new energy in the last year.

Frownies and jowlies are under attack at the Lake Austin Spa Resort in Austin, Texas, where guests are led through a series of 23 facial movements meant to release facial tension, lift droopy mouth corners and iron forehead wrinkles.

The Kapiolani Health Center in Honolulu, Hawaii, has six two-hour sessions designed to create “balanced facial symmetry” while revitalizing and rejuvenating skin.

Gary Sikorski, who is certified in yoga facial toning, gives his Happy Face workshop in the Atlanta area. In a phone interview, Mr. Sikorski sounded, well, quite happy. He had just seen a graduate of his course, and, he said, “she had been practicing a lot on her own, and she looked amazing! The corners of her mouth were turned up, she looked younger and was absolutely glowing.”

The latest six-session series, he said, drew 25 seekers of his guidance for stimulating 57 muscles in the face, neck and scalp. Mr. Sikorski sent them home with a 33-page booklet, a CD and fact sheets on nutrition and vitamins. “Folks are realizing the face has muscles and that there’s a substitute to plastic surgery that costs less and can achieve similar results,” he said.

Much less: At $250, his class is a bargain when compared with a laser peel, which runs around $600.

The publishing industry has been quick to sit up straight, breathe deeply and take notice. Besides Ms. Hagen’s book, there is “The Yoga Facelift,” by Marie-Véronique Nadeau, coming out next month. Published by Red Wheel Weiser/Conari Presso, it will have a first printing of 15,000 — large for a small publisher in San Francisco.

“Plastic surgery can leave people looking like waxed fruit and doesn’t address long-term sagging,” said Ms. Nadeau, 59, whose workshops at Elephant Pharmacy, an alternative pharmacy chain in the Bay Area of Northern California, draw a standing-room-only crowd. “For some reason we exercise every part of our body but ignore everything from the collarbone up.”

Maryann Donner, the group fitness director at New York Health & Racquet, said Ms. Hagen’s Revita-Yoga class is part of another trend she has observed while organizing the 600 classes the chain’s 10 gyms offer each week. “Right now the trend in classes is fusion, the bringing of two worlds together,” Ms. Donner said.

For Revita-Yoga, “Annelise took her knowledge of facial exercises from her acting background and fused it with her yoga teachings,” Ms. Donner said. “When she came to me last year with the idea, I fell in love with it immediately.”

The class was called Yo-Tox until the folks from Botox had other thoughts. The club soon changed the name.

But is there any merit to these exercises, and will there ever be a substitute for freezing a muscle?

“Nothing is going to have a lasting benefit like Botox or filler or collagen injections,” said Dr. Dennis Gross, a Midtown Manhattan dermatologist, the author of “Your Future Face” and the creator of a skin-care line. But there are short-term improvements, he said.

“Facial stretches and yoga temporarily reduce the neurological impulses associated with stress and the grimaces that lead to the lines in your forehead,” he said. “The plumping of your lips is more a massage and only adds color for a few minutes.”

And once the foot hits the pavement during rush hour, or the BlackBerry is back in hand, the face automatically tenses up, and the benefits of deep breaths and relaxation wear off.

“If you already have a wrinkle or a frown line, relaxation isn’t going to erase that,” said Dr. Richard Elias, an oral and maxillo-facial surgeon on the Upper East Side.

On the other hand, Dr. Elias said, there is no physical downside to facial workouts. And, he added, the exercises might help with prevention.

“Jowls, sagging under the neck, creases at the mouth, are all signs of aging that most probably will not be helped by a yoga class,” he said. “If you make the muscles in your face bigger it will not make sagging skin tougher or tighter, nor will it help remove fatty deposits. Only a face-lift can do that. When you do a face-lift, you’re removing fat and loose skin, and pulling some skin back.”

Some yoga gurus are skeptical, too.

“We’ve not discovered the fountain of youth, though people are always trying to obtain it,” said Rodney Yee of East Hampton, N.Y., a well-known yoga instructor, who was unaware these programs existed. “Yoga will add radiance to your face and relax you, which will make you look younger, but to just focus on the face is too specific and sounds more like a marketing ploy.”

Marketing ploy or not, devotees don’t seem to care. This is, after all, a face-conscious nation.

“I know I’d see better results if I practiced the exercises at home,” said Anne Starr, a banker who has taken the Revita-Yoga class for more than a year. “The title intrigued me, and I love the anti-aging qualities the class offers. The fact that I’m working muscles I’m not conscious of, paired with the yoga techniques, makes me feel I’m doing something really beneficial for my face and body.”

As the Friday class ended and members were putting away their mats, smiles were on their faces, a bounce was in their step and their cheeks were flushed with color.

“When we smile in a relaxed, natural way without crinkling our eyes, we tone and eliminate wrinkles,” Ms. Hagen said as she waved goodbye to several students. “I don’t teach a smiling exercise since it happens naturally when the session ends.”



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Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Don't Miss: Microfinancing !

Op-Ed Columnist

TimesSelect You, Too, Can Be a Banker to the Poor

Nicholas D. Kristof/The New York Times

Abdul Satar, a Kabul baker.

Published: March 27, 2007

KABUL, Afghanistan

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Nicholas D. Kristof.

For those readers who ask me what they can do to help fight poverty, one option is to sit down at your computer and become a microfinancier.

That’s what I did recently. From my laptop in New York, I lent $25 each to the owner of a TV repair shop in Afghanistan, a baker in Afghanistan, and a single mother running a clothing shop in the Dominican Republic. I did this through www.kiva.org, a Web site that provides information about entrepreneurs in poor countries — their photos, loan proposals and credit history — and allows people to make direct loans to them.

So on my arrival here in Afghanistan, I visited my new business partners to see how they were doing.

On a muddy street in Kabul, Abdul Satar, a bushy-bearded man of 64, was sitting in the window of his bakery selling loaves for 12 cents each. He was astonished when I introduced myself as his banker, but he allowed me to analyze his business plan by sampling his bread: It was delicious.

Mr. Abdul Satar had borrowed a total of $425 from a variety of lenders on Kiva.org, who besides me included Nathan in San Francisco, David in Rochester, N.Y., Sarah in Waltham, Mass., Nate in Fort Collins, Colo.; Cindy in Houston, and “Emily’s family” in Santa Barbara, Calif.

With the loan, Mr. Abdul Satar opened a second bakery nearby, with four employees, and he now benefits from economies of scale when he buys flour and firewood for his oven. “If you come back in 10 years, maybe I will have six more bakeries,” he said.

Mr. Abdul Satar said he didn’t know what the Internet was, and he had certainly never been online. But Kiva works with a local lender affiliated with Mercy Corps, and that group finds borrowers and vets them.

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The local group, Ariana Financial Services, has only Afghan employees and is run by Storai Sadat, a dynamic young woman who was in her second year of medical school when the Taliban came to power and ended education for women. She ended up working for Mercy Corps and becoming a first-rate financier; some day she may take over Citigroup.

“Being a finance person is better than being a doctor,” Ms. Sadat said. “You can cure the whole family, not just one person. And it’s good medicine — you can see them get better day by day.”

Small loans to entrepreneurs are now widely recognized as an important tool against poverty. Muhammad Yunus won the Nobel Peace Prize last year for his pioneering work with microfinance in Bangladesh.

In poor countries, commercial money lenders routinely charge interest rates of several hundred percent per year. Thus people tend to borrow for health emergencies rather than to finance a new business. And partly because poor people tend to have no access to banks, they also often can’t save money securely.

Microfinance institutions typically focusing on lending to women, to give them more status and more opportunities. Ms. Sadat’s group does lend mostly to women, but it’s been difficult to connect some female borrowers with donors on Kiva — because many Afghans would be horrified at the thought of taking a woman’s photograph, let alone posting on the Internet.

My other partner in Kabul is Abdul Saboor, who runs a small TV repair business. He used the loan to open a second shop, employing two people, and to increase his inventory of spare parts. “I used to have to go to the market every day to buy parts,” he said, adding that it was a two-and-a-half-hour round trip. “Now I go once every two weeks.”

Web sites like Kiva are useful partly because they connect the donor directly to the beneficiary, without going through a bureaucratic and expensive layer of aid groups in between. Another terrific Web site in this area is www.globalgiving.com, which connects donors to would-be recipients. The main difference is that GlobalGiving is for donations, while Kiva is for loans.

A young American couple, Matthew and Jessica Flannery, founded Kiva after they worked in Africa and realized that a major impediment to economic development was the unavailability of credit at any reasonable cost.

“I believe the real solutions to poverty alleviation hinge on bringing capitalism and business to areas where there wasn’t business or where it wasn’t efficient,” Mr. Flannery said. He added: “This doesn’t have to be charity. You can partner with someone who’s halfway around the world.”

You are invited to comment on this column at Mr. Kristof’s blog, www.nytimes.com/ontheground.


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Monday, March 26, 2007

Sleep

medical examiner: Health and medicine explained.

Why Do We Sleep?

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Click here to launch a slide showHow we long for a good night's sleep. More than 40 million Americans suffer from chronic sleep disorders, and this month, a National Sleep Foundation survey found that 60 percent of American women say they get enough sleep only a few nights a week (men weren't asked). Small wonder, then, that U.S. sales for sleeping pills hit $3.7 billion last year and are on the rise, according to IMS Health, a health-care information company. We are taunted by Lunesta's bioluminescent butterfly. We are seduced by ads for the sleeping pill Rozerem that wistfully tell us, "Your dreams miss you." We have made sleep "the new bottled water," as the New York Times recently put it in an article about slumber salons that the tired pay to visit during the day. We may envy CEOs and coaches who fire up their treadmills at 5 a.m., but what we want for ourselves is an afternoon nap.

Why the obsession? And what, exactly, is sleep for? A little more than a half-century ago, most scientists believed that sleep was an inactive state, a kind of parenthesis in living. Then in 1951, Eugene Aserinsky, a clever graduate student at the University of Chicago, hooked his son Armond to a retooled "brain wave machine" and monitored the boy's sleep deep into the night. Aserinsky observed sharp spikes of activity on his readout, suggesting that Armond's eyes were darting back and forth. This turned out to reflect the distinctive state within sleep dubbed rapid eye movement, or REM— a "new continent in the brain," as a colleague later put it. Aserinsky and his adviser, Nathaniel Kleitman, hypothesized that rapid eye movement was related to dreaming. Soon Kleitman and others were mapping the basic cartography of sleep, which alternates between non-REM and REM periods throughout the night, in roughly 90-minute cycles.

Sleep is not an optional enterprise. All mammals do it. So do birds, reptiles, and even fruit flies. Rats deprived of sleep apparently die faster than those deprived of food. Sleep deprivation is a ruthlessly effective means of torture, as the new movie The Lives of Others shows in a stomach-turning scene. Yet the bedrock question—what purpose does sleep serve for us and the rest of the animal kingdom—remains oddly unsettled.



After sleeping on it, I went in search of some theories. I started with Robert Stickgold, a cognitive neuroscientist at Harvard, whose office is located in one of the quieter precincts of Beth Israel Deaconess Hospital, in what used to be a patient room. "There's an old joke that the function of sleep is to cure sleepiness," he says, smiling, white hair mussed and thick eyebrows animated. "We think we can deprive ourselves of sleep and drink triple espressos or take Modafinil. But that's like saying, 'I've figured out how to cure hunger in Africa: I'm going to send over amphetamines so people won't feel hungry anymore.' It doesn't address the underlying need."

Except that with sleep, as opposed to food, no one knows exactly what the underlying need is. Stickgold is one of the foremost sleep researchers in the country and has long argued that sleep's crucial function is to boost memory and learning. His theory is that during sleep, the brain evaluates recently learned information and decides what to do with it. In the process, memory consolidation takes place—memories or skills that were acquired during waking are stabilized or enhanced, or perhaps moved to new locations. The brain may also extract patterns and rules from large amounts of information.

Evidence that sleep plays a role in memory consolidation and mental processing comes largely from behavioral research in which scientists teach people a task and then try to pinpoint a boost in performance that they can attribute to sleep. Frequently, they try to correlate the gain with a particular portion of sleep, as well—REM versus non-REM. In an experiment published in 2000, for instance, Stickgold and his colleagues asked subjects to identify, as rapidly as possible, the orientation of diagonal bars against a background of horizontal ones. Some people returned for retesting later the same day and showed little improvement. Others returned after a night of sleep and did significantly better. The sleepers' improved scores were proportional to the amount of slow-wave sleep (a stage of non-REM) they had gotten early in the night and the amount of REM sleep they had gotten late in the night. The researchers also found that when subjects were deprived of sleep the night after learning the task, their performance did not significantly improve later, even after two subsequent nights of recovery sleep. And so they concluded that sleep "within 30 hours of training is absolutely required for improved performance."

Dozens of studies similarly show evidence of a link between a learning or memory task and some portion of sleep. (Here's an example.)

Sleep may facilitate more complex forms of insight as well. For a study reported in 2004, a German group asked subjects to work on a series of interrelated math problems, which contained a "hidden rule" that allowed them to be solved more quickly. People who returned to the puzzles after a night of sleep found the shortcut roughly twice as often as those who had spent an equal amount of time awake. What enabled the flash of insight, the researchers suggested, may have been the "restructuring of representations in memory" during sleep.

New work from Stickgold's lab also suggests that sleep helps people to extract themes or meaning from information they were presented with during the day. When shown lists of related words, for instance, subjects were better able to recall the unifying principle of the list—what the words had in common—after sleeping.

Stickgold is sure that sleep is crucial to "how our memories are initially stabilized and ultimately shaped," including how new memories are integrated with older ones. And this function may help to explain sleep's evolution. During sleep, animals cannot hunt for food or produce more offspring and may be more vulnerable to predators. So to have endured all these millennia, snoozing is likely to offer some adaptive advantage that outweighs its risks. But what? Stickgold suggests that the different stages of sleep—with their distinctive patterns of brain activity—were selected for because they help the brain to perform different kinds of memory tasks.

Yet questions remain. In some of the older work on sleep and memory, methodological issues make it hard to tell if gains in performance are due specifically to sleep (as opposed to, say, the passage of time). More recently, there has been a huge push to tackle which stages of sleep enhance memory—and which sorts of memory get a critical boost from sleep. When you sort through them, the distinctions that crop up can sometimes seem a little baroque. Why should learning to discriminate among visual patterns depend on slow-wave sleep early in the night and REM sleep late, as Stickgold has shown? Are there more thoroughgoing effects throughout the night that we have not yet picked up on? Also, apparent contradictions emerge with regard to particular sleep stages. For instance, as this review points out, one study found that depriving people of all sleep in the second half of the night (when REM predominates) impaired their improvement on a given task. But depriving them of REM sleep for the entire night did not have the same effect.

Maybe future research will resolve all of this. Or perhaps we'll learn that the mapping of specific memory tasks onto portions of sleep tells only a partial story. The effects of sleep on memory could turn out to be byproducts of something more basic—as the slumber of peculiar creatures like the platypus hints. More on that tomorrow.



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Friday, March 23, 2007

Mobile, Alabama

Born near Mobile at Brookley Field Air Force Base, I have had a pleasant lifelong connection to this most beautiful of all gulf cities. It's my father's hometown, and where we spent countless Easters and Thanksgivings in the '50s and '60s and '70s. Enjoy.

American Journeys

You Can Call It the Little Easy

Steven Frame for The New York Times

Tori Ross, 14, posed for her mother, Susan, last Sunday at Bellingrath Gardens near Mobile, Ala.

Published: March 23, 2007

WHEN thousands of athletes from around the world pull on their running shoes in Mobile, Ala., tomorrow and set out through the streets in the 10-kilometer Azalea Trail Run, they will race past antebellum mansions, ornate old commercial buildings, majestic churches and storefronts topped by lacy cast-iron balconies and grillwork. The run, now in its 30th year, is timed for late March to coincide with the bloom of azaleas and dogwood, one of the prettiest seasons in Mobile, an easygoing port town spread along the banks of the Mobile River and bell-shaped Mobile Bay. The race attracts runners from as far away as Kenya and New Zealand, happy to test themselves amid the scent of wisteria. But they are far from the first outsiders to be attracted to Mobile.

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Mobile, Ala.Map

Mobile, Ala.

James Edward Bates for The New York Times

The Gonsalves family of Summit, Miss., toured Fort Gaines on Dauphin Island last week.

Steven Frame for The New York Times

The Carnival Museum.

Steven Frame for The New York Times

Bienville Square.

The city’s strategic setting — where Alabama thrusts its stubby southwestern thumb toward the Gulf — and the fecundity of its natural estuarine environment first drew American Indians and then attracted and concentrated the energies of European exploration like few other places in North America. Euphonious street and place names evoke the intermingling of cultures — French, British, Spanish, American and Confederate flags have all flown over Mobile.

Locals like to point out that in 2005, the city absorbed a glancing blow from Hurricane Katrina with relatively little damage, taking the temporary closing of some downtown buildings in stride. Soon afterward, Katrina swept in a new wave of residents — 30,000 or more who had been uprooted from elsewhere on the Gulf Coast — many from New Orleans, a two-hour drive west on Interstate 10.

“I grew up in New Orleans and lived in Marigny, near the French Quarter,” a waitress who would give her name only as Claudia said on a late January day as she tended to the lunch buffet at Janino’s, an Italian restaurant on Dauphin Street, within blocks of two of the city’s eight historic districts. After Katrina, she moved to Mobile.

“The architecture is similar,” she said, gesturing toward the imposing stone cathedral across the street. “Just look at the iron fence over there. Plus there are lots of Catholics, Mardi Gras, and it’s close enough to home. The coolest thing is, you have the beach here.”

To a new visitor, Mobile does look a bit like New Orleans with a beach. Both cities are saltwater ports founded on river deltas by the French early in the 18th century, with a similar cultural and architectural legacy, right down to the ornamental iron curling into arabesques, leaf clusters and lyres.

But Mobile sits on slightly more secure ground, puts on a more sedate Mardi Gras, and exudes an understated prosperity — its regional amenities include expensive beach houses at the south end of Mobile Bay (half an hour’s drive out of town) and five Robert Trent Jones Sr. golf courses, three at Magnolia Grove and two at Lakewood Golf Club.

Janino’s looks out on Cathedral Square — a good place to begin a search for Mobile’s soul. At the west side of the square sits the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, which embodies the sweep of the city’s past in microcosm. Its parish has its roots in 1703; the core of the current structure was completed in 1850. The classical portico, towers and steeples — and the intricate cast-iron fence — were added after the Civil War. Inside, the vaulted ceiling is decorated with both fleurs-de-lis and shamrocks.

Within a few walkable blocks are carefully preserved Greek Revival and Italianate buildings, an attractive city park called Bienville Square; the Carnival Museum, stocked with Mardi Gras memorabilia; and a terminal for cruise ships.

The Battle House Hotel on Royal Street, known to long-time residents as “Mobile’s living room,” is in the final stages of restoration and is scheduled to reopen in May. In the lobby, a meticulously restored stained-glass dome crowns a rotunda that is surrounded by ornate columns, three balconies and “whispering” arches, which seem to magnify voices.

“We’re so looking forward to its reopening,” said Anne Layfield, a longtime Mobile resident. “As young Mobilians we went to so many functions there — sorority dances, wedding receptions, even teas.”

Ms. Layfield is curator of another preserved building, the Conde-Charlotte Museum House, which was originally built around 1710 as a munitions magazine.

The Museum of Mobile, in an 1857 building that is one of the best local examples of Italianate architecture, peels back the layers of local history. Among the engaging artifacts is a hoary wooden dugout canoe found in the river delta north of the city on a fishing trip by a local father and son in 1976. Modern dating techniques show it to have been fashioned for use in local waters by Indians about 1320, 200 years before the first Spaniard identified Mobile Bay.

Beyond downtown, Mobile sprawls out — its genteel, easygoing reputation is almost belied by the dashing around you can do to take in its attractions.

Oakleigh, about a mile west of the cluster of historic sites downtown, is a mansion open for tours and furnished in period style, reflecting the cosmopolitan opulence of the city when it was a thriving seaport in the mid-1800s. Step through the back-to-back parlors with 16-foot ceilings and note the rich appointments chosen by the owners, a cotton broker and his wife: silver-plated hardware on the doors; piano keys covered with mother-of-pearl; a pier or “petticoat” table with a mirror underneath; and crystal gaskoliers, a reminder that Mobile was one of the first Southern cities to use natural gas when it became available in the early 1800s.

RUNNERS (or spectators) who don’t get enough of azaleas at the Trail Run will find 250,000 of them about a half-hour out of downtown at Bellingrath Gardens in suburban Theodore. Camellias, cyclamen with variegated leaves of white, red or hot and pale pink, and a variety of other flowers also bloom in Bellingrath’s 68 acres, but the azaleas rule.

The gardens are on the grounds of the Bellingrath mansion, which sits on a rise above the brackish Fowl River and is also a tourist spot. Built in 1935, it borrows elements of many traditions and eras — a Georgian staircase reminiscent of an English country house, French doors, a Mediterranean courtyard.

To understand the elemental natural setting that underpins Mobile’s history, drive down the bay to Dauphin Island, a barrier island at the gateway to the Gulf of Mexico where Civil War history, end-of-the-road geography and marine ecology overlap. Cross the bridge from the mainland and soak up the view: a vast, open seascape of sky and lowland marsh, daubed with the white specks of oyster and shrimp boats.

At the end of Route 193, make a left turn onto Bienville Boulevard and stop at Cadillac Square, a picnic area shaded by huge pines and live oaks. In the early 1700s, this outpost was the home of the governor of the territory of Louisiana, a link in an ambitious plan by French explorers based in Canada to control southern North America.

A couple of miles away, at the eastern tip of the island, is Fort Gaines, which together with Fort Morgan, situated on a coastal spit across a three-mile stretch of water, was the focal point in the Battle of Mobile Bay in 1864. In an important victory, the Union Navy captured the forts, which had guarded the mouth of the bay. The battle is best remembered for Admiral David Farragut’s supposed cry, “Damn the torpedoes! Full speed ahead!”

Follow the fort’s self-guided tour through brick tunnels, buildings and bastions.

Across the street from the fort is the Dauphin Island Estuarium, the public aquarium of the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, Alabama’s marine research and education center. If your timing is right, and aided by informative signs that drive home the ephemeral nature of barrier island existence, you may see rangy pelicans or a great blue heron along a boardwalk that skirts a marsh outside the building.

Inside, tanks illustrate the four habitats of the Mobile bay ecosystem: river delta, bay, barrier islands and gulf. The area drained by the watershed makes the bay the fourth largest estuary system in the United States, according to the estuarium.

The local sea life presents a resplendent, almost voluptuous diversity: there are submerged grass beds in the delta, 15 species of shrimp, literally dozens of species of crabs in the bay, and oysters that release 70 million to 170 million eggs at once and filter five gallons of water an hour through their gills.

Mobile Bay’s shallowness — averaging about 10 feet deep — hampers its ability to absorb agricultural runoff, contributing to a local phenomenon well known to scientists and bayside residents, though rarely seen. In certain conditions, with an easterly wind, crabs, flounder and other bottom-dwelling creatures, starved for oxygen, flop up like manna on the bay’s eastern shore — unexpected offerings of seafood that were called the Jubilee by surprised settlers. Jubilees have been recorded since the mid-1800s — sometimes several in a single summer — but no one can predict when they will happen.

For better odds of viewing wildlife, cross the street to the Audubon BirdSouth America. Sanctuary. Though it may not be as extraordinary as a Jubilee, the sanctuary’s panoply of bird life quickens the hearts of birders, who consider it one of the top spots in North America to see migratory species. In its pine forest, freshwater lake and swamp or on its beach, you may spot a cormorant cavorting in the dunes or a brilliant-blue indigo bunting touching down, glad to be back in Alabama after the long flight from

VISITOR INFORMATION

AMERICAN, Continental, Delta, Northwest and US Airways serve the Mobile Regional Airport, but there are no direct flights from New York. A Web search this week found round trips from New York in mid-April starting at $305.

The Renaissance Riverview Plaza (64 South Water Street, 251-438-4000; www.marriott.com) is under renovation until June, but there was little evidence of disruption this winter in its beautiful and busy lobby. Rooms start at $169.

The Berney/Fly Bed and Breakfast (1118 Government Street, 251-405-0949; www.berneyflybedandbreakfast.com) is in a Victorian mansion with period antiques, a courtyard and a pool. It has five rooms, $69 to $159.

At Janino’s (350 Dauphin Street, 251-433-0500) the lunch buffet of Italian dishes costs $6.99.

The elegant Spot of Tea Cafe (310 Dauphin Street, 251-433-9009) draws a breakfast crowd with dishes like pecan waffles ($5.99) and eggs cathedral, made with crab cakes and a sauce of blackened grouper and crawfish ($9.95).

Felix’s Fish Camp (1530 Battleship Parkway, Spanish Fort; 251-626-6710), a five-minute drive from downtown, is a local favorite for oysters, prepared in many ways. Broiled crab cakes and shrimp and grits are both $16.95.

The Museum of Mobile (111 South Royal Street, 251-208-7569; www.museumofmobile.com), is $5 to enter.

Oakleigh (350 Oakleigh Place, 251-432-1281; www.historicmobile.org) is part of a complex of three historic houses. A tour of one is $5, of all three $7.

At Bellingrath Gardens (12401 Bellingrath Gardens Road, Theodore; 251-973-2217; www.bellingrath.org) admission is $10, and a house tour is $8.

On Dauphin Island, entry to the Estuarium (101 Bienville Boulevard, 251-861-7500; estuarium.disl.org) is $7; to Fort Gaines (51 Bienville Boulevard; 251-861-6992; www.dauphinisland.org) $5.



What's On My Other Blogs today: (click blog name to go there) = / 1.3rd Eye Blog / 2. Favorites Blog/ 3. Vita Excolatur (Living Well ...) Blog/ 4. Humor Me Blog/ 5. News and Current Events Blog/ 6. Consider This ... Blog/ 7. Consumer Warnings Blog/ 8. New Orleans Pentimento Blog/ 9. We Constant Gardeners Blog/ 10. Chaillot Family Blog/

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Low-Impact Living

The Year Without Toilet Paper

Nicole Bengiveno/The New York Times

Dim Lights, Big City The Conlin-Beavan family experiment requires that lights be low in their Fifth Avenue apartment.

Published: March 22, 2007

DINNER was the usual affair on Thursday night in Apartment 9F in an elegant prewar on Lower Fifth Avenue. There was shredded cabbage with fruit-scrap vinegar; mashed parsnips and yellow carrots with local butter and fresh thyme; a terrific frittata; then homemade yogurt with honey and thyme tea, eaten under the greenish flickering light cast by two beeswax candles and a fluorescent bulb.

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Nicole Bengiveno/The New York Times

Michelle Conlin ride her scooter, even in the snow. “Rain is worse,” she said.

Nicole Bengiveno/The New York Times

His Way Colin Beavan is a regular visitor to the Union Square Greenmarket; he brings string bags and reusable cups.

Nicole Bengiveno/The New York Times

Worms eat their garbage.

Nicole Bengiveno/The New York Times

Michelle Conlin’s lunch is packed in a Mason jar each day.

A sour odor hovered oh-so-slightly in the air, the faint tang, not wholly unpleasant, that is the mark of the home composter. Isabella Beavan, age 2, staggered around the neo-Modern furniture — the Eames chairs, the brown velvet couch, the Lucite lamps and the steel cafe table upon which dinner was set — her silhouette greatly amplified by her organic cotton diapers in their enormous boiled-wool, snap-front cover.

A visitor avoided the bathroom because she knew she would find no toilet paper there.

Meanwhile, Joseph, the liveried elevator man who works nights in the building, drove his wood-paneled, 1920s-era vehicle up and down its chute, unconcerned that the couple in 9F had not used his services in four months. “I’ve noticed,” Joseph said later with a shrug and no further comment. (He declined to give his last name. “I’ve got enough problems,” he said.)

Welcome to Walden Pond, Fifth Avenue style. Isabella’s parents, Colin Beavan, 43, a writer of historical nonfiction, and Michelle Conlin, 39, a senior writer at Business Week, are four months into a yearlong lifestyle experiment they call No Impact. Its rules are evolving, as Mr. Beavan will tell you, but to date include eating only food (organically) grown within a 250-mile radius of Manhattan; (mostly) no shopping for anything except said food; producing no trash (except compost, see above); using no paper; and, most intriguingly, using no carbon-fueled transportation.

Mr. Beavan, who has written one book about the origins of forensic detective work and another about D-Day, said he was ready for a new subject, hoping to tread more lightly on the planet and maybe be an inspiration to others in the process.

Also, he needed a new book project and the No Impact year was the only one of four possibilities his agent thought would sell. This being 2007, Mr. Beavan is showcasing No Impact in a blog (noimpactman.com) laced with links and testimonials from New Environmentalist authorities like treehugger.com. His agent did indeed secure him a book deal, with Farrar, Straus & Giroux, and he and his family are being tailed by Laura Gabbert, a documentary filmmaker and Ms. Conlin’s best friend.

Why there may be a public appetite for the Colin-Beavan family doings has a lot to do with the very personal, very urban face of environmentalism these days. Thoreau left home for the woods to make his point (and secure his own book deal); Mr. Beavan and Ms. Conlin and others like them aren’t budging from their bricks-and-mortar, haut-bourgeois nests.

Mr. Beavan looks to groups like the Compacters (sfcompact.blogspot.com), a collection of nonshoppers that began in San Francisco, and the 100 Mile Diet folks (100milediet.org and thetyee.ca), a Vancouver couple who spent a year eating from within 100 miles of their apartment, for tips and inspiration. But there are hundreds of other light-footed, young abstainers with a diarist urge: it is not news that this shopping-averse, carbon-footprint-reducing, city-dwelling generation likes to blog (the paperless, public diary form). They have seen “An Inconvenient Truth”; they would like to tell you how it makes them feel. If Al Gore is their Rachel Carson, blogalogs like Treehugger, grist.org and worldchanging.com are their Whole Earth catalogs.

Andrew Kirk, an environmental history professor at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, whose new book, “Counterculture Green: The Whole Earth Catalog and American Environmentalism,” will be published by University Press of Kansas in September, is reminded of environmentalism’s last big bubble, in the 1970s, long before Ronald Reagan pulled federal funding for alternative fuel technologies (and his speechwriters made fun of the spotted owl and its liberal protectors, a deft feat of propaganda that set the movement back decades). Those were the days when Stewart Brand and his Whole Earth writers, Mr. Kirk said, “focused on a brand of environmentalism that kept people in the picture.”

“That’s the thing about this current wave of environmentalism,” he continued. “It’s not about, how do we protect some abstract pristine space? It’s what can real people do in their home or office or whatever. It’s also very urban. It’s a critical twist in the old wilderness adage: Leave only footprints, take only photographs. But how do you translate that into Manhattan?”

With equals parts grace and calamity, it appears. Washed down with a big draught of engaging palaver.

Before No Impact — this is a phrase that comes up a lot — Ms. Conlin and Mr. Beavan were living a near parody of urban professional life. Ms. Conlin, who bought this apartment in 1999 when she was still single, used the stove so infrequently (as in, never, she said) that Con Edison called to find out if it was broken. (Mr. Beavan, now the family cook, questioned whether she had yet to turn it on. Ms. Conlin ignored him.)

In this household, food was something you dialed for.

“We would wake up and call ‘the man,’ ” Ms. Conlin said, “and he would bring us two newspapers and coffee in Styrofoam cups. Sometimes we’d call two men, and get bagels from Bagel Bob’s. For lunch I’d find myself at Wendy’s, with a Dunkin’ Donuts chaser. Isabella would point to guys on bikes and cry: ‘The man! The man!’ ”

Since November, Mr. Beavan and Isabella have been hewing closely, most particularly in a dietary way, to a 19th-century life. Mr. Beavan has a single-edge razor he has learned to use (it was a gift from his father). He has also learned to cook quite tastily from a limited regional menu — right now that means lots of apples and root vegetables, stored in the unplugged freezer — hashing out compromises. Spices are out but salt is exempt, Mr. Beavan said, because homemade bread “is awful without salt; salt stops the yeast action.” Mr. Beavan is baking his own, with wheat grown locally and a sour dough “mother” fermenting stinkily in his cupboard. He is also finding good sources at the nearby Union Square Greenmarket (like Ronnybrook Farm Dairy, which sells milk in reusable glass bottles). The 250-mile rule, by the way, reflects the longest distance a farmer can drive in and out of the city in one day, Mr. Beavan said.

Olive oil and vinegar are out; they used the last dregs of their bottle of balsamic vinegar last week, Mr. Beavan said, producing a moment of stunned silence while a visitor thought about life without those staples. Still, Mr. Beavan’s homemade fruit-scrap vinegar has a satisfying bite.

The television, a flat-screen, high-definition 46-incher, is long gone. Saturday night charades are in. Mr. Beavan likes to talk about social glue — community building — as a natural byproduct of No Impact. The (fluorescent) lights are still on, and so is the stove. Mr. Beavan, who has a Ph.D. in applied physics, has not yet figured out a carbon-fuel-free power alternative that will run up here on the ninth floor, though he does subscribe to Con Ed’s Green Power program, for which he pays a premium, and which adds a measure of wind and hydro power to the old coal and nuclear grid.

The dishwasher is off, along with the microwave, the coffee machine and the food processor. Planes, trains, automobiles and that elevator are out, but the family is still doing laundry in the washing machines in the basement of the building. (Consider the ramifications of no-elevator living in a vertical city: one day recently, when Frankie the dog had digestive problems, Mr. Beavan, who takes Isabella to day care — six flights of stairs in a building six blocks away — and writes at the Writers Room on Astor Place — 12 flights of stairs, also six blocks away — estimated that by nightfall he had climbed 115 flights of stairs.) And they have not had the heart to take away the vacuum from their cleaning lady, who comes weekly (this week they took away her paper towels).

Until three weeks ago, however, Ms. Conlin was following her “high-fructose corn syrup ways,” meaning double espressos and pastries administered daily. “Giving up the coffee was like crashing down from a crystal meth addiction,” she said. “I had to leave work and go to bed for 24 hours.”

Toothpaste is baking soda (a box makes trash, to be sure, but of a better quality than a metal tube), but Ms. Conlin is still wearing the lipstick she gets from a friend who works at Lancôme, as well as moisturizers from Fresh and Kiehl’s. When the bottles, tubes and jars are empty, Mr. Beavan has promised her homemade, rules-appropriate substitutes. (Nothing is a substitute for toilet paper, by the way; think of bowls of water and lots of air drying.)

Yet since the beginning of No Impact, and to the amusement of her colleagues at Business Week, Ms. Conlin has been scootering to her office on 49th Street each day, bringing a Mason jar filled with greenhouse greens, cheese and her husband’s bread for lunch, along with her own napkin and cutlery. She has taken a bit of ribbing: “All progress is carbon fueled,” jeered one office mate.

Ms. Conlin, acknowledging that she sees her husband as No Impact Man and herself as simply inside his experiment, said she saw “An Inconvenient Truth” in an air-conditioned movie theater last summer. “It was like, ‘J’accuse!’ ” she said. “I just felt like everything I did in my life was contributing to a system that was really problematic.” Borrowing a phrase from her husband, she continued, “If I was a student, I would march against myself.”

While Ms. Conlin is clearly more than just a good sport — giving up toilet paper seems a fairly profound gesture of commitment — she did describe, in loving detail, a serious shopping binge that predated No Impact and made the whole thing doable, she said. “It was my last hurrah,” she explained.

It included two pairs of calf-high Chloe boots (one of which was paid for, she said, with her mother’s bingo winnings) and added up to two weeks’ salary, after taxes and her 401(k) contribution.

The bingo windfall points to a loophole in No Impact: the Conlin-Beavan household does accept presents. When Mr. Beavan’s father saw Ms. Conlin scootering without gloves he sent her a pair. And allowances can be made for the occasional thrift shop purchase. For Isabella’s birthday on Feb. 25, her family wandered the East Village and ended up at Jane’s Exchange, where she chose a pair of ballet slippers as her gift.

“They cost a dollar,” Ms. Conlin said.

It was freezing cold that day, Mr. Beavan said, picking up the story. “We went into a restaurant to warm her up. We agonized about taking a cab, which we ended up not doing. I still felt like we really screwed up, though, because we ate at the restaurant.”

He said he called the 100 Mile Diet couple to confess his sin. They admitted they had cheated too, with a restaurant date, then told him, Yoda-like, “Only in strictness comes the conversion.”

Restaurants, which are mostly out in No Impact, present all sorts of challenges beyond the 250-mile food rule. “They always want to give Isabella the paper cup with the straw, and we have to send it back,” Mr. Beavan said. “We always say, ‘We’re trying not to make any trash.’ And some people get really into that and others clearly think we’re big losers.”

Living abstemiously on Lower Fifth Avenue, in what used to be Edith Wharton country, with early-21st-century accouterments like creamy, calf-high Chloe boots, may seem at best like a scene from an old-fashioned situation comedy and, at worst, an ethically murky exercise in self-promotion. On the other hand, consider this response to Mr. Beavan’s Internet post the day he and his family gave up toilet paper.

“What’s with the public display of nonimpactness?” a reader named Bruce wrote on March 7. “Getting people to read a blog on their 50-watt L.C.D. monitors and buy a bound volume of postconsumer paper and show the filmed doc in a heated/air-conditioned movie theater, etc., sounds like nonimpact man is leading to a lot of impact. And how are you going to measure your nonimpact, except in rather self-centered ways like weight loss and better sex? (Wait, maybe I should stop there.)”

Indeed. Concrete benefits are already accruing to Ms. Conlin and Mr. Beavan that may tempt others. The sea may be rising, but Ms. Conlin has lost 4 pounds and Mr. Beavan 20. It took Ms. Conlin over an hour to get home from work during the snowstorm on Friday, riding her scooter, then walking in her knee-high Wellingtons with her scooter on her back, but she claimed to be mostly exhilarated by the experience. “Rain is worse,” she said.

Perhaps the real guinea pig in this experiment is the Conlin-Beavan marriage.

“Like all writers, I’m a megalomaniac,” Mr. Beavan said cheerfully the other day. “I’m just trying to put that energy to good use.”



What's On My Other Blogs today: (click blog name to go there) = / 1.3rd Eye Blog / 2. Favorites Blog/ 3. Vita Excolatur (Living Well ...) Blog/ 4. Humor Me Blog/ 5. News and Current Events Blog/ 6. Consider This ... Blog/ 7. Consumer Warnings Blog/ 8. New Orleans Pentimento Blog/ 9. We Constant Gardeners Blog/ 10. Chaillot Family Blog/